propshaft missing

[bloxxy]

Just bought a Freelander 1.8 (2000 on an X plate) - fortunately reasonably cheaply. Noticed a slight knock from the rear diff on the drive home so thought I'd stick my head underneath for a look and guess what, someone has removed the complete propshaft.

It actually drives really well on the road and I've read plenty as to why people remove these things. My problem is that the advice given to help diagnose whether its the IRD or the viscous coupling thats stuffed, involve the propshaft actually being fitted in the first place. Is there anyway I can work out whats wrong without the propshaft in place? If the viscous coupling is stuffed, I can probably buy a decent secondhand one cheaply (any suggestions?) and solve the problem. I don't want to do this and then find that its the IRD thats not working because I'd need a major re-think then. Anyone got any suggestions? Taking the car back to the seller isn't an option so I need to sort this out myself.

[Exmoor Beast]

Several VCs and IRDs on ebay a few weeks ago when I was researching buying a Freelander, if theres none there it may be worth contacting some of the breakers who list on ebay Autocraft have been mentioned to me a couple of times as being good to deal with although I haven't used them yet personally.

Will

[WESTENDER]

Several VCs and IRDs on ebay a few weeks ago when I was researching buying a Freelander, if theres none there it may be worth contacting some of the breakers who list on ebay Autocraft have been mentioned to me a couple of times as being good to deal with although I haven't used them yet personally.

Will

bloxxy

if the complete propshaft is missing you wont have a VCU to test, if the rear propshaft is missing i would suggest you have been stitched up by the seller and have a case for your money back as they knew they had a problem and concealed it by removing the propshaft, probably knackered the IRD through a siezed VCU?

If you have got the VCU in place i would think the trunnions are well knackered with that mass of metal flying around, [probably your knock] it is emphasised in my manual specificaly not to remove part of the rear drive train it must be removed in total, as damage will result

the method of testing a VCU is on the forum and is easy once you know how

[Exmoor Beast]

Should have added this yesterday:

Ashcrofts VC test

I would think as said above your VC is knackered if not the rear diff and IRD as well, VCs are about £200 on ebay...

Will

[disco_al]

first thing, as already mentioned, is where did you buy it from? if it's from any type of dealer/trader, then head straight back there with it and make a fuss for your money back, or for them to pay for the required parts to be refitted.

if it was a private sale then it could be a bit more difficult, if it's good old ebay, then start reading the terms and conditions, and the advert. if it states in there that everything works fine, then you have a good case for getting some cash back.

do all this before you go spending money on parts.

[jules]

I have a early IRD and it was wearing the tyres and making them wine

remove the rear prop and after a few hundred miles the whining goes.

I would put money on that why the rear prop is missing.

[Guest diesel_jim]

Several VCs and IRDs on ebay a few weeks ago when I was researching buying a Freelander, if theres none there it may be worth contacting some of the breakers who list on ebay Autocraft have been mentioned to me a couple of times as being good to deal with although I haven't used them yet personally.

Will

I've had quite a bit of stuff from Autocraft, in Birmingham (Martin does the "big" stuff) and the southern branch (well, the chaps house and garage) who sell the smaller stuff (gear knobs, looms,seats etc). both great to deal with and helpful, although it pays to ring Martin as he's not too good on emails.

Also, try giving Porny a shout, he may know where to lay his hands on one.