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Radius Arms


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The cranked angle adjusts the neutral/at-rest position to allow for a suspension lift, and restores equal amounts of bush flex up and down.

Without them, lifted suspension will reach full compression of the bush on droop earlier - i.e you'll get less displacement from the at-rest position.

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I assume you are mainly asking about the angle at the end as shown.

These are for those that have fitted lift kits; this affects the angle of the radius arm with respect to the bush in the chassis. The angle is made steeper by the suspension lift; these angled radius arms correct that problem. If left uncorrected you can/do lose some suspension down travel (droop as it's called :) )

HTH

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Mostly involved in holding the axles to the chassis!! :)

They transmit the driving force from the axles/wheels to the vehicle. the rears are assisted by the A-frame, whilst the front hockey sticks, being rigidly fixed to the axle, work on their own in the forwards/backwards direction, side to side the front axle is located by the panhard rod.

Axle/suspension systems can include;

Triangulated 3 link - defender rear

3 link and panhard - defender front

Watts Linkage - disco2 rear? i think?

4 link - often seen on more serious off road vehicles, see Moglite etc.

Link length, vertical seperation at both the axle and chassis, and triangulation/offset in the horizontal direction give the suspension characteristics, often discussed on here, proper design of the vehicle to give the desired handling characteristics is all part of the design of one-off suspension systems.

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According to the guy I bought it off mine has:

2inch lift with es9000 shocks

2 inch extended brake hoses

-2 shock mounts front an rear

castor corrected radius arms front an rear

110 cv joints an discs an calipers

Any good and how do I check it does?

Pete

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