Squealing TD5

[elmscroft]

Hi All,

Our TD5 Discovery had been stood for about a month. Then when used had developed a squeal, like the belt was slipping, fitted a new belt and still the same. It has air con. and ACE, I do have a belt for one without ACE, that I could try. It happens under acceleration and goes once revs are settled. Any ideas or pointers would be welcome. Already tried turning the radio up.

Many Thanks

Mike

[K88 MUD]

We had one in the garage for the same fault......it was the exhaust manifold on the 5th cylinder as the studs had come loose and it was the gases passing over the gasket.

[MRDIITD5]

Squirt some wd40 at the belt tensioner whilst getting someone to rev the engine. If it goes then that is your culprit

[elmscroft]

Hi Guys,

Sorry for the delay. Tried WD40 no luck. It only happens on acceleration and after 2000rpm. Once vehicle is upto speed it goes until you accelerate again. Didn't know about emerying uo th pulleys?

Many Thanks

Mike

[JimAttrill]

As another garage man, I would go for the studs at either no 1 or no 5 cylinders. A common problem, the manifold warps as it is too long (designed by the tea lady) and the studs break (the cost accountants got in there). Best thing is to skim the manifold and replace the studs with the Würth Mercedes Benz items. They look the same but don't break.

[elmscroft]

Hi,

Being a 2001 model with less than 40,000 miles, would gases only create the squeal on acceleration or all the time. I suppose I'm trying to put off checking the manifold, but probably dont understand why the squeal is not there all the time.

Many Thanks

Mike

[K88 MUD]

The squeal is like a high pitch whisstle as the gasses pass over the metal gasket and more so when driven hard (full boost)

[JimAttrill]

Just so. The fact that it is power and not rev dependent is the giveaway here.

[elmscroft]

Hi,

Okay, thanks, will investgate later today. If weather holds up.

Thanks

Mike

[elmscroft]

HI,

Removed covers and found very little sign of blowing only that the protective sleeve of the oil pressure switch was melted. Is there modified gaskets for the manifold? Can the manifold be removed without removing too many other parts.

Many Thanks

Mike

[JimAttrill]

Use the normal double tin gasket. You don't need to remove the manifold, just take off the nuts and pull it back far enough to get the old gasket out and the new one in.

[elmscroft]

Hi Jim,

All stripped out, two studs on No. 1 sheared, one loose on No.5, looks as though it has been blowing at down pipe.

Broked studs removed even a flush one. Will try and get Wurth studs as you suggest. Now to start ordering bits.

Will keep you updated.

Thanks once again

Mike

[Warthog]

And there i was, thinking i would have a quiet night

Hope it goes back together O.K

Just to keep me awake, thought i would take a few piccies of the job at hand. 50 thou, run out from the centre port to 1 and 5 Ports

[JimAttrill]

Apart from having the manifold skimmed, there is a theory that removing the webs between the ports, or at least slotting them, will help in the future. We have also tried ceramic coating - expensive but the manifold runs MUCH cooler. We also drill the holes in the manifold out to 9mm to allow a bit of movement.

Of course, what it really needs is a two or three piece manifold like the 300Tdi and 10mm bolts also like the Tdi.

[elmscroft]

Hi

Just done 50-60 miles and so far all ok. Just read jim's last post, but that will have to wait till next time. May look to see if it is possible to open holes up in head to 10mm. Once again many thanks to everyone for their advice and suggestions. It was the thought of stripping the manifold that was the biggest hurdle.

Best Wishes

Mike