Colibri Brown Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 I got a stainless steel brake hose kit for my RR last week, But when doing the brake bleeding and looking at the standard hoses they are well "ON 19 years in the same place" and and speaking with some one else to day about fitting them and how things could go bad, like damage to the fixed lines and so on. I am now getting cold feet, I have a good range of tools but only have a parking space to work in, and with the rear line I have no idea how I could get at it. I don't want to pay out for my garage to fit them. Oh how I dream of a full work shop with the wheels off the ground lift, I am sure I could do it then, If any one has fitted this kind of kit, any help about it would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 If you need the vehcile every day and don't feel confident to do the job yourself then paying a garage is the way to go. However, if you can leave her on the drive for a few days and you want to learn a bit and can afford a few "bu99er it" moments when seized components shear then give it a go - it really is not difficult. The rear hose is best accessed by supporting the rear of the vehicle on the chassis as high as you can and taking the rear wheels off. Then lower the axle down. This will give you access to the union with the rigid pipe in the middle of the vehicle. Give all the unions a good soaking for a few nights with penetrating oil and try your luck. Replacement rigid hoses can be easily made up by your local motor factor if you take them the old one as a pattern. Of course, if you have any doubt about your ability to return the brakes to a safe condition then please ask a grown up for help! There may be a forum member near you you could take the truck to and get a helping hand with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 Your problem will be the female fitting taking the fixed pipe onto the flexi. What will happen is it will be seized onto the pipe so as you undo it from the flexi it will just twist the pipe and break it. OK so plan for it. Get a pair of spanners and undo the locknut holding the flexi into the bracket. Now the flexi is free to rotate hold the female union still and try to undo the flexi from it. Once it is moving you can see if the union will rotate on the pipe. If it does then fine. If not cut through the flexi and continue unscrewing it from the union. Once the flexi is off you can gently work on rotating and rocking the union on the end of the pipe to free it off. No guarantees are offered and you may still break the pipe but it is your best shot. If yours is the same as my 87RRC then the pipe to the rear is not one piece as there is an inline joint under the drivers feet. As said before these are safety critical issues and you may need the balls to accept that the job is perhaps beyond your capabilities. From your earlier posts I doubt this to be the case but.... Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colibri Brown Posted October 6, 2008 Author Share Posted October 6, 2008 you want to learn a bit and can afford a few "bu99er it" moments when seized components shear then give it a go - it really is not difficult Also I should have said that at this time I am low on both time and money, So the garage option flies out the window at £65 +VAT per hour and the "Bu99er it Moments" scare me stiff I know from the start that my Jack and axle stands could do with being replaced, before working under "HIM" with the cost of any extra things and the wet cold weather coming in I think I will get a refund on them. Or if there is any one with a warm big garage, with a lift and spare brakes parts near me then please put your hand up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colibri Brown Posted October 6, 2008 Author Share Posted October 6, 2008 Your problem will be the female fitting taking the fixed pipe onto the flexi.What will happen is it will be seized onto the pipe so as you undo it from the flexi it will just twist the pipe and break it. OK so plan for it. Get a pair of spanners and undo the locknut holding the flexi into the bracket. Now the flexi is free to rotate hold the female union still and try to undo the flexi from it. Once it is moving you can see if the union will rotate on the pipe. If it does then fine. If not cut through the flexi and continue unscrewing it from the union. Once the flexi is off you can gently work on rotating and rocking the union on the end of the pipe to free it off. No guarantees are offered and you may still break the pipe but it is your best shot. If yours is the same as my 87RRC then the pipe to the rear is not one piece as there is an inline joint under the drivers feet. As said before these are safety critical issues and you may need the balls to accept that the job is perhaps beyond your capabilities. From your earlier posts I doubt this to be the case but.... Steve If this was the same question on a Mini then I would be dishing out the advice. My back ground is in electronics, auto electronics, panel beating and general machanics. I am happy with brake bleeding and as I say have replaced and upgraded any part of a Mini brake system you can name. buy that was in a garage and you can just close the door if the job gets in trouble. But as I have said in my other post working in a parking space in the cold and wet is not easy. Also if any one wants the kit for what I paid for it before I return it give me a shout, it is standard hight and was £80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooper Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 when undoing the brake pipe union, use a brake spanner as it will reduce the chances of rounding the nut, as sais earlier soak in wd40 or such like for a cpl of days and just go gently, don't rush it and take care, at work if they are seized solid we use heat to free them( a hand held blow torch would suffice) just enough to warm the nut to a redish colour HTH Shaun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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