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Calipers and brake disk replacement


dantd5

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You would have to remove both swivel pins, seal retaining ring bolts, and steering rods. The swivel housing would then come off with the hub still attached.

You could then beat the hell out of it on the bench :)

Les.

That would be a nice plan. I am gonna whack the hell out of it!.. Thanks Les.. Was just scared of damaging things inside teh brake disk but I know now it is the rust hindring it from giving away!.

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;) Managed to get the swivel pins and the swivel housing out. One shot oil stinks like pooh.. Anyway all cleaned up but I can see that the chrome seal was not damaged. No sigh of tear. The top and lower swivel bearings were intact but I am still in the mood of changing it to new ones. I got the half shaft out and cleaned it all. I will be putting on the Chrome gaiters,new brake disk and pads, new calipers! Thanks Les.. Pics to watch for inquisitive eyes :rolleyes: Currently cleaning with kerosene to clean them but is there any special oil for that purpose? Or should I use diesel?

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I use brake & clutch cleaner if I'm doing the job on site. I have a parts washer in the shed which is paraffin/Gunk mixture. I've used petrol, cellulose thinners, acetone in the past (bad for your skin/lungs and fire/exposion risk though). I've never tried diesel, but I should imagine it would work ok.

Les.

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:unsure: I will go get that cleaner then. Kerosene is the same as parafin actually- Yeah petrol is another alternative. Will get that too. It gets interesting when things are going easy. Half shaft will be well cleaned too. Should I use high temp greese oil on the half shaft or the One shot swivel greese can take both the chrome ball and half shaft? :huh:

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and so close to diesel that you could run your TD5 on it, as long as you declare it to the tax man!

good pics Dan, keep them coming

:rolleyes: Sure try filling your tank on dieselparafin... Stravaigin... :blink::unsure:

In the early morning hours, I creeped into the garage and the result is as follows. Today is one of the days when one sees the bright side of having a landy. One has the right parts and everything just falls into place. I managed to get out 6 octagonal bolts from the casing that holds the wheel. It just needed a shock to unloosen.Half shaft into place,Chrome housing followed, hub bearing to place (new one and well greased) Hub nut lock washer and finally hub nut to place.I took out all the bolts and fixed the new brake disk in place. Got the caliper into place. I was trying hard to use a locktite to get the caliper screw into place but it almost got stuck before I managed to screw it to place. This repeated a couple of times. I got P#$$ off and ignored locktite and strangled it to the max. The result is as follows.... I am now waiting to bleed the brake pipes. Would make some research and get that done. PICs.... For shouting out loud- that gas oven keeps me warm and the yellow "bench" is my chair. I am tempted to construct a wooden oven but I might be hanged by neighbours due to excessive smoke it would create.....

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:rolleyes: Finally work is finished! I simply heaved a sign of relief!! Luckily (or betterstill well calculated) I had new draglink en joints and I bought a set for a LHD defender. I oiled it with parafin oil and was ready to YANK the brain out of it when I got a shock of my life :blink: !!It simply gave away at the least twist!!!

All done now and the brakes have been well bleded! Pics follow... I had to change all the hubs as they were rust-locked!

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One tricky thing too was to get all done whiles in there. The things to get in mind are;

*Chrome gaiter

*Open up the plug for the one-shot-swivel grease

*The mud flap connector on the lower swivel pin ( I forgot it on first attempt)

*Bleed brakes

*Clean disk from all oil

Thanks for Les' informative Tech Archives which gave the confidence at getting this done!!

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