Marks 110 Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 The temp gauge on my 200tdi has started going right upto the red after 10-15mins driving before backing off slightly and sitting just past half-way. I changed the thermostat for a new 88 degree one but it has made no difference. How can I test the temp sensor and gauge for correct operation? Any other ideas on the cause of the problem much appreciated - water pump, airlock spring to mind but I'm not sure what to look for? The cooling system also seems to over pressurised with much hissing and gurgling when I remove the expansion tap with engine stone cold - head gasket?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orangemach5 Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Could possibly be the headgasket if its pressurising when cold (good thing about Tdi's there dead easy , but i would do a few checks first. Is your rad nice and clear, on the outside give it a blow through with an airline from the engine side to remove any carp. Have you checked the system is is bled properly, i.e removed the bung in the top of the Rad and filled the header tank untill it flows from the top of the rad. You can check the operation of the water pump (albeit in a crude way) when the rad is full with the bung out start the engine and blip the throttle a few times, you should see the water level in the rad drop when you rev the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks 110 Posted November 28, 2008 Author Share Posted November 28, 2008 Could possibly be the headgasket if its pressurising when cold (good thing about Tdi's there dead easy , but i would do a few checks first. Is your rad nice and clear, on the outside give it a blow through with an airline from the engine side to remove any carp. Have you checked the system is is bled properly, i.e removed the bung in the top of the Rad and filled the header tank untill it flows from the top of the rad. You can check the operation of the water pump (albeit in a crude way) when the rad is full with the bung out start the engine and blip the throttle a few times, you should see the water level in the rad drop when you rev the engine. Yeah I'll certainly check the rad. Would I need to drain some coolant before checking the water pump as you suggest cause I thought with the header tank being higher than the rad plug it will run out as it is removed. I suppose a compression test would show if it was the head gasket. I dont want to remove the head again unless I'm certain, only did it last year when it blew out the back of no.4 cylinder. cheers anyway Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orangemach5 Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 Yeah I'll certainly check the rad. Would I need to drain some coolant before checking the water pump as you suggest cause I thought with the header tank being higher than the rad plug it will run out as it is removed. I suppose a compression test would show if it was the head gasket. I dont want to remove the head again unless I'm certain, only did it last year when it blew out the back of no.4 cylinder.cheers anyway Mark Did you check the head wasnt warped when you had it off?? If it was warped it will cause premature gasket failiure! May need skimming! With ref to checking the pump, just take the bung out of the rad and let the excess water run out and then try it, it will be obvious when you rev the engine! Try checking the actual temp of the thermostat housing with a laser themometer when the gauge says the engines hot before you get too involved, could just be the gauge afterall. Does it smell hot? A compression test may show a weakness, its worth doing if youve got the kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
666 george Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 Is a Disco engine in a TD ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks 110 Posted November 29, 2008 Author Share Posted November 29, 2008 Did you check the head wasnt warped when you had it off?? If it was warped it will cause premature gasket failiure! May need skimming! With ref to checking the pump, just take the bung out of the rad and let the excess water run out and then try it, it will be obvious when you rev the engine! Try checking the actual temp of the thermostat housing with a laser themometer when the gauge says the engines hot before you get too involved, could just be the gauge afterall. Does it smell hot? A compression test may show a weakness, its worth doing if youve got the kit. I did check the head with a straightedge and it looked fine. I'll check the pump in the morning, I didn't get round to it today as our other car failed its mot and the landy has been used to collect firewood from a tree I just cut down. It seems to be running ok and heater is the usual luke warm. By the way do you mean one of those infra-red thermometers, it would probably be worth buying one anyway as it would be useful for my job (gas fitter) and making toffee!, I seem to recall screwfix selling them. What sort of temp should I be looking for with engine warmed up? Does anybody know what the resistance should be across the temp sensor when cold? Cheers again, I'll let you know how I get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger90 Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 i have the same problem with my 200tdi.. and on my brother 110.. the old chap changed the sender unit. it did the trick on a 2.5td not sure on 200tdi... yet. does the guage go up more at night? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks 110 Posted November 29, 2008 Author Share Posted November 29, 2008 i have the same problem with my 200tdi.. and on my brother 110.. the old chap changed the sender unit. it did the trick on a 2.5td not sure on 200tdi... yet. does the guage go up more at night? I can't say I've noticed the gauge going up more at night!? (mind you its a bit difficult to tell as last time I had the instrument panel off the bulb for the temp gauge fell out and I haven't got round to putting it back yet). I'll certainly try getting a new temp sensor before taking the head off. I think Paddocks sell em quite cheaply. How long has yours been like this? cheers mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger90 Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 I can't say I've noticed the gauge going up more at night!? (mind you its a bit difficult to tell as last time I had the instrument panel off the bulb for the temp gauge fell out and I haven't got round to putting it back yet). I'll certainly try getting a new temp sensor before taking the head off. I think Paddocks sell em quite cheaply. How long has yours been like this? cheers mark yeah give it a whearl.. i must say ever since i got the truck.. i didnt have a viscous fan atthe time had a kenlowe but it was the guage was reading that temp which was close to hot. i couldnt trust the kenlowe and one day i didnt kick when sposed to didnt watch the temp for 5 mins.. looked and it was on the red... i cort it just intime before it did major damage, so i went to back to viscouse.. it has actualy nocked it down to 3/4 now but still to hot i think... the engine dont feel that hot either.. so the only thing i can think it will be is the guage or the sender unit.. as i said it did the trick on my brother 110. heres the part numbers for: Coolant Temperature Sensor PRC8001 (orange) and PRC9917 (green) http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/cgi-bin/rimmer...very/eng-diesel (green) http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/cgi-bin/rimmer...very/eng-diesel (orange) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks 110 Posted November 29, 2008 Author Share Posted November 29, 2008 yeah give it a whearl.. i must say ever since i got the truck.. i didnt have a viscous fan atthe time had a kenlowe but it was the guage was reading that temp which was close to hot. i couldnt trust the kenlowe and one day i didnt kick when sposed to didnt watch the temp for 5 mins.. looked and it was on the red... i cort it just intime before it did major damage, so i went to back to viscouse.. it has actualy nocked it down to 3/4 now but still to hot i think... the engine dont feel that hot either.. so the only thing i can think it will be is the guage or the sender unit.. as i said it did the trick on my brother 110.heres the part numbers for: Coolant Temperature Sensor PRC8001 (orange) and PRC9917 (green) http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/cgi-bin/rimmer...very/eng-diesel (green) http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/cgi-bin/rimmer...very/eng-diesel (orange) Cheers for that. Once had a kenlowe myself but chucked it after the thing wore through the radiator where it was mounted causing a coolant leak. Since then (about three years ago) I haven't bothered with a fan at all apart from when we drove through the pyrenees last year (thought that might be pushing it a bit). Until now the temp has always stayed rock steady just less than halfway on the gauge when warmed up. I keep the fan in the back just in case but have never needed to put it back on. I think It saves me a few m.p.g. Somebody's gonna tell me thats a bad idea aren't they! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger90 Posted November 29, 2008 Share Posted November 29, 2008 Cheers for that. Once had a kenlowe myself but chucked it after the thing wore through the radiator where it was mounted causing a coolant leak. Since then (about three years ago) I haven't bothered with a fan at all apart from when we drove through the pyrenees last year (thought that might be pushing it a bit). Until now the temp has always stayed rock steady just less than halfway on the gauge when warmed up. I keep the fan in the back just in case but have never needed to put it back on. I think It saves me a few m.p.g. Somebody's gonna tell me thats a bad idea aren't they! i hate them.. i made brackit for the rad and intercooler shell thingy.. just cut the wires and put bllit conniectors on just in case.. the origenal brakit ripped my rad apart (it was shagged anyway) the only leaks where the brakits where for the fan.. to be fair i havnt noticed the differnt between not having viscouse and having a viscouse.. it not much noticble differnt in mpg (i only do short jorneys).. only good thing is with no fan is motorway when the engine is running hot there is no fan to draw the power out the engine more mpg for motorway.. if youget my drift haha.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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