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Prop Shaft Replacement


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<_< Hi fellows

:blink: Someone might tell me I am brainlessly :huh: spending a fortune by changing anything that show signs of wear-n-tear on my car but after I remove the part, I refurbish it (old part) and use it as a spare!! This gives me time to have a car in use and a part in place.

I have read about the replacement of UJs on the Front shaft but still chose to buy a new one. Is there anything I should be watching out for when changing the old Front Shaft to a new one? Thinking about alignments positioning of the greese nipple and so on and so forth... :( ..All suggestions are welcome!!

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If you're going to change a propshaft every time a UJ dies on you, you're in for some expense my friend. You don't need much to replace a UJ. All that's required is a hammer, circlip pliers and a large vice. Work slowly and be patient. Just be sure that the grease nipples face away from the drive flange, otherwise you won't be able to get a grease gun onto them.

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If you're going to change a propshaft every time a UJ dies on you, you're in for some expense my friend. You don't need much to replace a UJ. All that's required is a hammer, circlip pliers and a large vice. Work slowly and be patient. Just be sure that the grease nipples face away from the drive flange, otherwise you won't be able to get a grease gun onto them.

:o Expense has already been covered. My question is , is it a straight forward operation or is there any precautions I need to adhere to? I have a new Prop Shaft to Replace the old one and change the uj on the old and keep it as an extra part!!

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To change the front prop shaft, with the vehicle on level ground, I would put the handbrake and difflock on and chock a wheel to stop the vehicle moving. Then remove the 8 bolts holding the propshaft to the flanges to remove old shaft, then bolt the new one in place, you may have to jack one front wheel up so that you can turn it to get the flange to line up at the axle end. The bolts are IIRC 9/16 head not 14mm.

Pete.

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To change the front prop shaft, with the vehicle on level ground, I would put the handbrake and difflock on and chock a wheel to stop the vehicle moving. Then remove the 8 bolts holding the propshaft to the flanges to remove old shaft, then bolt the new one in place, you may have to jack one front wheel up so that you can turn it to get the flange to line up at the axle end. The bolts are IIRC 9/16 head not 14mm.

Pete.

Thanks Pete..I will get it done this weekend and send some pics. Does this mean I do not need to mark any line from flange to Axle joint? Haynes is particular about getting an alignment when changing UJs and replacing old prop shafts. I am guessing the Ujs are completely blasted to pieces on the foremost part. The previous owner never thought about such things. Anyway Thanks for the tips!!

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Marking might, just might, be of any interest if you put the same propshaft back again. When putting on a new one, there is no (eventual) joint balancing anymore, so it doesn't matter. Nothing you can do about it...

:huh: Lars does it mean that just getting the bolts on both ends and Vips car is in motion? :unsure: Whatever happens a thorough work on the old prop would be done but not now. The weather is killing.. A 2 minutes tour out filling engine oil got me ending up with frozen fingers :ph34r:

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Yup, that's the way it's done. The four holes in each end are placed in a rectangle (as you may have noticed), so the shaft fits only in two 180° positions. Which one doesn't matter.

BTW, are you a member of http://www.lrforum.com/forum/ AKA VBF? :)

:lol: Cool Lars- thanks for the tip. Sure I am a member.... AKA VBF (Verdens Beste Forum?) Lol... 1120td5 .. what about you? :huh:

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I guess it is but I prefare the Technical definitions in English (or Engrish when it somes to mixing up Ls and Rs.. :rolleyes: ) I think I have seen some serious contributions from you! Some of the boys claim it is certainly the VBF... do you agree... B) ?

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We're getting OT, but since you started the thread it must be OK? :rolleyes::lol:

Personally, I think that this forum is the very best there is and how it's moderated. Lots of technical know how and (most of) all silly banter gets stopped or deleted.

Let's say that it's VBF in Scandinavia. ;):) Technically, as with all forums, you can get varying advices, just pick one. :o The tone is friendly and there is also room for general OT matters. I like it! ;)

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Ok to conclude it all, I simply have to jack up the wagon with one wheel up, Untie the bolts and simply put the new Prop Shaft on. I hope the "Clunks and Chunks" ceases. It's been bothering me for a while. A friend also told me I should as well change the Flanges. ( ¤ prop Flanges I think... )Is that necessary? Maybe try one thing at a time I guess.. Thanks for all contributions!!

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just replaced both my props, both completley knackered

the above advice is sound

i would only add 2 points.

1. use new nuts, the old ones will be 'tired'

2. make sure you thoroughly grease everything. i greased before i put the news ones on and then a week later after the grease has been allowed to spread around all the joints.

i would also take advantage while the props are off to check or change the gearbox oils - much easier.

cheers

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just replaced both my props, both completley knackered

the above advice is sound

i would only add 2 points.

1. use new nuts, the old ones will be 'tired'

2. make sure you thoroughly grease everything. i greased before i put the news ones on and then a week later after the grease has been allowed to spread around all the joints.

i would also take advantage while the props are off to check or change the gearbox oils - much easier.

cheers

:rolleyes: Good one there bm52... all taken with good faith! I have a collection of Prop.shaft bolts so I will deffinitely use the new ones!!

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:rolleyes: Prop shaft is in place now but however, there was a 30mm nut in the other end of the P. shaft. I was trying to get it off in order to change the Propshaft nuts but it wouldn't budge! And I saw the biggest C-Clips in my life on the edge which prevents the nuts from falling in case it loosens. I gave up and used the same bolts though. I did change the nuts since they has strains on them. They did look oki and not "tired" from it's looks. My question is can that nut be released at all and if so what is in wait for anyone who opens it up? Pic below show the shaft and the nut I am am talking about <_<

NB Haven't slept the whole night and still feel the strain on my eyes :(:blink::unsure:

post-7610-1228979171_thumb.jpg

post-7610-1228979218_thumb.jpg

post-7610-1228979238_thumb.jpg

post-7610-1228979262_thumb.jpg

post-7610-1228979405_thumb.jpg

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Sleep tight, nothing to worry about! Bolts are fine to use again and again, it's the nuts that lose their ability to hold on as the nylon gets worn. I've had my propshafts off several times, never even bothered to get new nuts, doing them up tight enough seems to be fine. ;)

My way of doing it, don't take it as a recommendation if you like to do things by the book! :)

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Sleep tight, nothing to worry about! Bolts are fine to use again and again, it's the nuts that lose their ability to hold on as the nylon gets worn. I've had my propshafts off several times, never even bothered to get new nuts, doing them up tight enough seems to be fine. ;)

My way of doing it, don't take it as a recommendation if you like to do things by the book! :)

Yeah I agree Lars.. Upon facing difficulty I just ignored all words I have heard and jammed the old bolts to place..Look at all the land rovers we see in the jungles of Africa.. The guys never work by the book and the landies survive well!! Fighting Elephants and Lions on their warfares... :lol: How are u by the way? :rolleyes:

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