FOS1 Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Hi. I have a 200 tdi ('L' reg). I know very little about the Discovery. I got it to pull the horse box, from ebay. No tax or test. It needed a little work, i thought it would give me something to do at the weekend. Yes its fair to say am now hooked. A new gear box and transfer box were fitted. Done that no problem (its a heavy bugger). Put 2 sun roofs in. New inerior, carpets and the front end from the 300 (far better lighting on the road). Bull bar was next and now i need a light bar for the roof. I was amazed at how cheep the parts were. But its about ready to go for the M.O.T. Its like been stood before the crown court judge.....ready for him to dish out the punishment !! But what i would like to know any points that they fail the test on. If i can do them before it goes it looks better and saves me money on the retest. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 The main thing would be to check for corrosion. The trouble spots on a D1 are the sills, the boot floor, the inner wings (and front footwells) and he rear body cross member. On a 5 Door, the base of the C Pillar tends to rust through from the inside too, particularly if you have sunroofs installed. They are all eminently repairable with some welding. Otherwise, all the usual mechanical stuff - wheel bearingss, suspension joints, steering joints etc.. hth Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pw8757 Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Had it been for an MoT and failed? Although you may not have a failure certificate with the faults on if the previous owner didn't give it to you, he/she may know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Sharp edges/corrosion on the bodywork that might injure a pedestrian/within 30cm of mounting point/seat/seat belt mounting point, cracked or broken wing/interior mirror, cracked or chipped windscreen, wipers split/not clearing the screen correctly, washer jets working, sidelights working with the ignition on or off, indicators/hazards, dip/main beam, number plate light, brake lights, front doors openable from inside and outside of the vehicle, rear doors openable from the outside at minimum, seat belts undamaged/secure/locking mechanism working, seats secure, play in steering wheel, required switches illuminated/noted (such as hazard switch/fog lamps/etc, horn, tyre sidewall/tread condition/directional fitment/correct ply rating/contacting parts of the vehicle on full lock in either direction, steering u/j's/tre's/other damage, exhaust system leaks/security/mounts/exit outside of the vehicle, brake pads, brake hoses - perishing (cracking)/corrosion of the ferrule, corroded/leaks/insecure brake pipes, wheel bearings/swivel bearings/swivel joint leaking close to or on a brake component, leaking/ineffective suspension component (leaking shocks, worn or loose shock mounting rubbers), various rubber bushes (any will fail), steering system leaks (PAS only), handbrake operation, foot brake operation, corrosion to chasis (with some exceptions), outrigger corrosion, fuel leaks. Also dodgy paintwork, scruffy owner, full ashtray, excessive chequer plate, carp tyres, Aldi 500kg winch, Scrapiron stickers It's also worth noting that a tester can refuse to continue the test for a variety of reasons, such as excessive dirt, door mechanisms not working correctly, and one or two other items that I can't remember right now. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOS1 Posted February 4, 2009 Author Share Posted February 4, 2009 well les i think you have just about covered everything. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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