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High Level Brake light

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I have just found that the electrical connector for the high level brake light to the connection on the rear window has become detached.

The High level brake light therefore does not work.

How can I reattach it to the electrical track on the window through which it gets its power? (runs around the outside of the window, and uses the earth from the rear demister.



The bracket is on the right, and is loosely held on with a bit of paint at present.

I am not minded to go at it with a soldering iron, as the glass is likely to break.

Would glueing it on and using some circuit repair paint to remake the connection work?

Do I need to run a wire from the lower part of the window where the connection comes onto the window?

What can I do?


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I'd solder it.

Soldering done quickly won't heat the glass anywhere near enough to break it.

Ideal can stick something under the point of contact and then hold the wire onto the connector the drips some solder in

something like exhaust repair paste or anything that won't melt it near heat.

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Yes I would make up something to catch any run off use that to hold the wire onto the connection point, heat the soldering iron as hot as it will get and run some solder onto the wire/connection

exhaust paste or something that will not melt ideally

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Thanks Tony,

It is not a wire, but is a bracket so will absorb quite a bit of heat.


If I put the solder wire between the bracket and window and heat the bracket until the solder melts will that be ok?

I note the idea of putting something heat resistant under the bracket to catch the drips - good idea.


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Thanks Tony - all fixed now.

Learned a few things on the way:

  • Glass is a good heat sink - patience is necessary! It took a long time for the solder to take. And I was worried about soldering on glass!
  • At 5 deg C, a 15W soldering iron is probably not man enough
  • Even at 5 deg C fingers sizzle nicely (or not) when they come in contact with the soldering iron.
  • Trying to resolder the original bracket was not going to work with the soldering iron I have
  • Tony was right in using a wire, although care needed to be taken when the mounting went back on. It took the soldered wire off a few times until I worked out how to reduce the stress on the soldered bit
  • Electrical tape will hold the wire down and not melt as it is far enough away on the glass for the temperatures not to affect it.
  • Be careful with exhaust putty near windows. It is difficult to get off when set.
  • Load space tie down rings make good holders for the soldering iron.

The pictures below are of the bracket which was removed, and of the soldered on replacement wire. Note that the wire needs to come through a hole level with the middle of the solder. (The soldering is shockingly bad!)

Sound advice as usual Tony.




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