PEASEY Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I have just rebuilt my front hubs with new bearings and seals,whilst there I noticed that one of my track rod ends/bottom ball joint is totally shot,Which explains my creaky and notchy steering.Now I have searched the techy part of the forum but cant find any info on the job and wondered if you guys had any tips or tricks when you change yours.Im going to be doing all four,whats the best way to tackle it?Do I remove the hole lot at once or one at a time?Will I need to get it tracked up again at the local tyre place or can this be done by me at home.Do I need to be soaking them in penatrating oil or will I be wasting my time,also am I going to need anything else other than the ball joints/tre a large hammer a splitter and some very colourfull swear words?Thanks,peasey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 They can be a nightmare to get out, I actually tore a track-rod in half trying to remove a stuck rod-end on my disco. Best approach is start soaking in WD40/ duck oil or similar (not sure how much it realy helps, but it can't do any harm) then remove the track rod and get it in a vice. Remove the clamps and then tap a chisel inot the slots in either end of the rod to open them up, and hopefully release the threads.. You then need a pair of stilsons or similar to get hold of the rod-end and wind in out, if it refuses to move try a little gentle heat (not too hot as you don't want to change the temper of the metal) It should come out, it all this fails to move it you might be looking at a new track rod.. when you put it all back together use lots of copper grease on the threads, and tip a little engine oil down inside the track rod, the oil will try to creep up the threads over time, and hopefully keep the rust at bay a bit longer... The problem with them is the fact they are put together dry in the factory, so they've started to sieze up before they even hit the road... Oh, and don't go to all this trouble and then fit B**tpart carp track rod ends, use Lemforder or similar, I think the Genuine parts ones are only about £17... You are better off getting a tyre place/ garage to set up your tracking properly, it should only cost £20ish... hope this helps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clbarclay Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I don't use a splitter to split the tapers on track rod ends. I just pry the joint apart and hit the side of the casing next to the taper with a big hammer and the coune out easy enough. On a LR you can apply the prying force by just using the bottle jack to push up on the track rod as near the taper as possible. Your not trying to lift the vehicle just enough force to help pull the taper apart while you hit it. Another technique to free at stuck TRE thread from the rod is with the TRE and rod removed, rest the threaded section of rod on a hard surface (anvil of a vice etc.) and tap the other side repetably with a hammer. The repeated vibrations help break down the corrosion bond between the parts. Unlike splitting the tapper to remove the TRE from the swivel casing, this is one job where you dopn't need to hit it too hard. Keep rotating the rod so that you work all over the siezed thread. ITs not a quick solution, but its not failed me yet on track rods. Some components with sized thread we have left in a bucket of diesel over night whcih also helps. Finally on tractors we tend to just start with the final solution which is to use and oxy-acetaline tourch to heat up the outer thread so that it expands away from the inner thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinny Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I have just rebuilt my front hubs with new bearings and seals,whilst there I noticed that one of my track rod ends/bottom ball joint is totally shot,Which explains my creaky and notchy steering.Now I have searched the techy part of the forum but cant find any info on the job and wondered if you guys had any tips or tricks when you change yours.Im going to be doing all four,whats the best way to tackle it?Do I remove the hole lot at once or one at a time?Will I need to get it tracked up again at the local tyre place or can this be done by me at home.Do I need to be soaking them in penatrating oil or will I be wasting my time,also am I going to need anything else other than the ball joints/tre a large hammer a splitter and some very colourfull swear words?Thanks,peasey. i used a brazing torch to heat it up but it was still tight and one side is a left thread and one is right so if your doing one side make sure you get the right thread ill have a look to see what side is a left thread unless someone can tell you before i find out .chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PEASEY Posted March 25, 2009 Author Share Posted March 25, 2009 Cheers lads for the info and tips,they arrived today so im going to tackle it at the week end.Now forgive me here as this maybe a stupid question but do i need to fill them with grease or are they filled at the factory? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinny Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Cheers lads for the info and tips,they arrived today so im going to tackle it at the week end.Now forgive me here as this maybe a stupid question but do i need to fill them with grease or are they filled at the factory? no factory filled just put some copper ease on the thread it will make it easier to get apart in the future have you got a ball joint splitter as i have one here if you need to borrow it chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PEASEY Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 Thanks for the offer chris but I have got both types ready and waiting and if all else fails I use my pulley puller,thank god there already filled those little metal spring clip things look real awkward to get on and off.cheers,paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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