bushwhacker Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Can the valve stem oil seals on a 2.5 nad be replaced without taking the head off? Or do I need to look for a crack to hide in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Grundy Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Can the valve stem oil seals on a 2.5 nad be replaced without taking the head off?Or do I need to look for a crack to hide in yes but its very tricky and will probly end up with removing the head anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 Thanks for the reply. I had thought to bring each piston in turn up to the top do the valve seals on that one put the spring and collets and top back on and move to the next one. Would this be the way to do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG NELLIE Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Yes, this can be done if you have access to a good compressor. Take an old set of plugs or injectors (diesel) and after drilling the centres, weld / braze an airline adaptor on each. Use a 4 in 1 air line adaptor and connect to an airline. Now you should be able to safely remove the shaft and subsequently the springs, colletts, etc. The valves will be held up with the compressed air giving you sufficient time to replace the valve stem seals. I hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 Thanks Sorry to sound dumb I am on a 47 year old learning curve, but when you say 4 in 1 you mean 1 in 4 outs for the air line. Or can each set of two vales be done at the one time? I can take the rocker shaft off ok it is the head I do not want to remove, again cedit crunch and all that. It is my own personal vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG NELLIE Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 One in four outs of the air line is correct. I suppose you could do it cylinder by cylinder although I used to do four at a time back in my youth in the seventies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 Good, I will give it a go one at a time. I have 4 old heater plugs to drill out should get 1 good en. I have a 150L compressor at hand. Up dates later if you are inteested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
819 Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 You can use a 2 inch by 1/4 inch flat bar with a hole just small enough not to let the spring slip through. Bring each cylinder up to TDC (top Dead Centre) then with a deep socket on top of the valve hit the spring down with a hammer the colletts will jump out. Replace the oil seal and then rebuild the spring etc. This is were the flat bar comes in compress the spring with the flat bar and whilst doing this get a mate to fit the collets. Then move onto the other cylinders. It can be a bit of a fiddley job and you do need a good push down on the flat bar. Good luck 819 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender300td1 Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 You can use a 2 inch by 1/4 inch flat bar with a hole just small enough not to let the spring slip through. Bring each cylinder up to TDC (top Dead Centre) then with a deep socket on top of the valve hit the spring down with a hammer the colletts will jump out. Replace the oil seal and then rebuild the spring etc. This is were the flat bar comes in compress the spring with the flat bar and whilst doing this get a mate to fit the collets. Then move onto the other cylinders. It can be a bit of a fiddley job and you do need a good push down on the flat bar.Good luck 819 HIT IT WITH A HAMMER OMG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
819 Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 HIT IT WITH A HAMMER OMG You only have to tap the top of the valve to release the collets. 819 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GL88 Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 Or you could use the right tool for the job: Valve spring compressor- http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?...;productid=8827 and compressed air adapter (this is for a petro engine so your pre heater modification might be a better bet) - http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?...amp;cmdGo=Go%21 But given that the engine is probably getting on a bit why not take the head off (after all it is an OHV engine so no cam timing to muck about with) and lap the valves while you are in there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 Thanks to all for the replys. I like the tool to compress the valevs I might try to make one. I have had the head off to do the head gasket and valve seats. I bought a gasket set on Ebay. The hg turned out to be slightly different form the one coming off 3 less holes got away with punching them out, only to find the rocker gasket was completely wrong the valve stem oil seals dia were way to wide and the exhaust gasket was wrong also. You might pay a bit more at the local LR place but you do get to see what you are paying for. And where I go to they will even through in a bit of advise. Can I just mention them here Belfast Land Rover Center Oh I have used the socket and hammer before to good use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 I'm not sure if this will work with the old girl as I'm not familiar with the chamber and piston, but on the 2/300Tdi's you don't even need an adapter and compressed air to hold the valves open, just roll the piston to TDC for each cylinder and the valves can rest on the piston as you service/replace the stem seals. I've done this several times on a 300Tdi, just using an in situ valve spring compressor and a tool I made for press fitting the new seals on. I did remove the glow plugs just to facilitate turning the engine over, and you check for TDC by watching for the TDC rock of the pushrods when the rocker gear is removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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