tuko Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Moving along at a good pace with motor conversion om my hybrid, it has presented a new head scratching situation for me when I installed the front drive shaft. The clearance from the front axle to the extended military bump stops is 7 cm. But back at the 300Tdi motor mount, the clearance from the drive shaft to motor mount is a meager 3.5 cm, half of what is at the front. At this point I'm assuming that I'm going to have clearance issues here. Would I be right in assuming that the clearance at the bump stop should equal that which is at the motor mount? If that is true, I will employ my trusty angle grinder to get the job done quickly. By removing a portion of the motor mount (the bottom section) will this cause any problem's with the motor mount itself? It is a rather robust mount and with the motor running, there is little vibration and I've not seen yet that the rubber cushion in the mount coming in contact with the lower steel portion of the mount. Therefore will I be OK with removing approx 3.5 cm of the mount. I'm thinking along the lines of cutting a horizontal line in the middle of the opening to effectively remove the entire lower section. In one of the images below, you'll see where I lightly scrapped off the dirt on the side of the motor mount, thats where I'm thinking of cutting it off. Cheers, Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 The 'nose' under the engine mounting rubber is there so that if the rubber breaks - the remains of the engine mount is still retained (it'll drop onto the axle otherwise). You could minimise the nose to improve the clearance, but you may not need to. 3.5cm doesn't seem to be much, but might in fact allow a lot of axle movement before the two touch (prop movement is less as it gets nearer to the transfer box U/J). The only way to know if they will touch is to remove the front springs and shocks and let the axle sit on the bump stops. By the way - you have a bolt missing from the diff nose/prop flange Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted April 20, 2009 Author Share Posted April 20, 2009 By the way - you have a bolt missing from the diff nose/prop flange tongue.gif Les your eye sight is going mate, there's a few more than just one bolt missing. .....Thanks for the tips, I'll give it a try later this week. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmy511 Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 have you tried fitting the standard 2.25 engine mounts to the block? i know on a 200 they fit and the series chassis mounts fit the engine. I not sure what 300 blocks are like but if you can bolt the mounts to the engine then it would be easier to move the standard series engine mount on the chassis rail and retain your clearence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted April 24, 2009 Author Share Posted April 24, 2009 Sorry Timmy, no can do. Totally different design and locations on the motor. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jericho Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 Hello Todd, Cut the whole lower section off,just as you suggested. The prop will hit the engine mount - I've been there! The lower part of the mount is there to stop exesive upward movement of the engine - not really a big concern when you think that there is nothing equivalent on a 200 defender mount. I think Les got the wrong end of the stick and was talking about the chassis side of the mount rather than the engine side. If you trim the mount,watch out for your oil filter.My prop put a dent in the bottom of it,so I fitted a shorter filter - I could probably find a part number if you wish. Having said all that,I had no bump stops fitted,so had a lot of upward movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 Hello Todd, Cut the whole lower section off,just as you suggested.The prop will hit the engine mount - I've been there! The lower part of the mount is there to stop exesive upward movement of the engine - not really a big concern when you think that there is nothing equivalent on a 200 defender mount. I think Les got the wrong end of the stick and was talking about the chassis side of the mount rather than the engine side. If you trim the mount,watch out for your oil filter.My prop put a dent in the bottom of it,so I fitted a shorter filter - I could probably find a part number if you wish. Having said all that,I had no bump stops fitted,so had a lot of upward movement. Jericho, thanks for the comments and will be getting to it with the grinder very soon. Yes, I would greatly appreciate a part number for the shorter oil filter as that was another concern I had/have. But with that said I did measure the clearance and it was greater than that of the axle and bump stop. How much give is there in the bump stop, I have no idea but it would be a certain given that I would dent the oil filter to. Cheers, Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 Jericho, Have you've been able to dig up the part number for the short oil filter? Cheers, Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jericho Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 Here it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 17, 2009 Author Share Posted May 17, 2009 Jericho, thank you for the oil filter part number, I can get them locally. Since I have you here, can I ask if you have a picture of the clearance of your motor mount? Also, how did you remove the excess metal? I mean, were you under the vehicle and went crazy with the angle grinder or did you remove the motor mount with the engine still there or did you do the custom work with the engine out of the landy? Cheers, Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jericho Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 After trying,and failing,to remove enough with it attached to the vehicle,I did the sensible thing and put a jack under the sump and took it off.I should have welded a plate over the bottom,but I wanted to be sure I had removed enough,then never got round to it.As it turned out,I had removed plenty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 17, 2009 Author Share Posted May 17, 2009 I have an extra motor mount in the garage, but can't remember which side it is at this time...in the morning I'll follow your footsteps and remove the excess metal. You make the point of welding a plate to the bottom, since not doing it have you noticed any movement/buckling in the side of the mount and is there more vibration on one side to the other? Many thanks for adding the pictures and information, very helpful. Cheers, Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jericho Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 Zero vibration,zero buckling - I just thought it looked like it would be a better job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 19, 2009 Author Share Posted May 19, 2009 Today I removed the right motor mount to cut the bottom portion off of it so that there is no interferences with the front drive shaft. Measuring it all up, the clearances between the bump stop/axle, the drive shaft/oil filter and drive shaft/motor mount are all now equal at approx 6cm. Even though, I'll still change the oil filter to a shorty. Thanks for the help/tips Jerry. Cheers, Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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