alan kemp Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 Just fitting a TGV engine and need some input for the cooling system. The oil cooler is seperate and down by the oil filter etc. Where does the hose connector on the cooler go to and what do I have to do with the water connection on the obsolete cooler on the radiator? I am hoping to fire this up this weekend so any advice would be appreciated. Also, I have an Ashcrofts ZF ****hp24 fitted, it has a dipstick, how much oil will it take and how do you fill it. Cheers Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 Not sure about the cooling Alun but I would have thought the coolant hoses on the Rad wouldn't change. Ref the gear box, It takes a lot! Think mine, newly rebuilt, with the new converter and large took about 10 - 11 ltrs of fluid. Fill it through the dipstick tube untill its up the the full mark, Then put transfer box in nutral, start engine and keep filling it to the upper mark while working it through the gears. Then when the level settles give it a run up the road untill the box is up to temp and re check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan kemp Posted June 13, 2009 Author Share Posted June 13, 2009 Not sure about the cooling Alun but I would have thought the coolant hoses on the Rad wouldn't change.Ref the gear box, It takes a lot! Think mine, newly rebuilt, with the new converter and large took about 10 - 11 ltrs of fluid. Fill it through the dipstick tube untill its up the the full mark, Then put transfer box in nutral, start engine and keep filling it to the upper mark while working it through the gears. Then when the level settles give it a run up the road untill the box is up to temp and re check. Cheers Steve. The coolent hoses are different, the oil cooler is next to the oil filter and is about 1/2" hose. The old one to the rad is about 1/4". Ever had a problem with water in the box, the dip stick seal looks dodgy to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 Cheers Steve.The coolent hoses are different, the oil cooler is next to the oil filter and is about 1/2" hose. The old one to the rad is about 1/4". Are they oil pipes that you need to take to a cooler built into the rad like they would be on a normal 300 TDi or have they built in an oil cooler to the sandwich plate on the engine that needs a water supply (Like most modern VW/Audi stuff runs) like in the pic below? Ever had a problem with water in the box, the dip stick seal looks dodgy to me. Throw that sump away and fit a D2 sump. Not much money new from ashcroft. Its the same but has a level plug with a copper washer instead of a dipstick. I wouldn't trust the dipstick in water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan kemp Posted June 13, 2009 Author Share Posted June 13, 2009 Are they oil pipes that you need to take to a cooler built into the rad like they would be on a normal 300 TDi or have they built in an oil cooler to the sandwich plate on the engine that needs a water supply (Like most modern VW/Audi stuff runs) like in the pic below? Throw that sump away and fit a D2 sump. Not much money new from ashcroft. Its the same but has a level plug with a copper washer instead of a dipstick. I wouldn't trust the dipstick in water. The cooler is next to the oil filter on the engine, it has one water connector, I think the other end goes back into the block. I think it may need a t piece to tap into the bottom rad hose filler pipe from the expansion/ filling bottle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 The cooler is next to the oil filter on the engine, it has one water connector, I think the other end goes back into the block. I think it may need a t piece to tap into the bottom rad hose filler pipe from the expansion/ filling bottle. I never had an issue with water going down the dipstick even with some pretty deep (well over the dipstick) wading. If you're worried then you can buy something at the chemist that you can slip over the top (and can be secured with a cable tie) that will protect against fluid transfer Re oil level, yes, it will take quite a bit when you first fill it. Pop 4-5l in to start with (before starting for the engine for the first time) and then keep adding until the level is somewhere between the marks. I found with my HP22/24 hybrid that the level didn't really stabilise so it was impossible to tell when totally full. You could tell when it was overfilled as it had a habit of shooting ATF up the dipstick tube when hot and blowing the top the dipstick off! This would be one reason for getting rid of the dipstick BUT it does make servicing harder. Re the hoses, they should hook up to standard positions on the rad and intercooler (bar the oil cooler lines). HTHs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan kemp Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 Re the hoses, they should hook up to standard positions on the rad and intercooler (bar the oil cooler lines). HTHs Cheers Will but its the oil cooler lines I am having problems with.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 The hose connector on the cooler is Tee'd into the fat riser pipe into the bottom of the expansion tank. The oil cooler connections on the rad are blanked off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Did you get instructions with the engine? If not, PM JST as he has all my old paperwork. That might throw some light on what needs doing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan kemp Posted June 15, 2009 Author Share Posted June 15, 2009 The hose connector on the cooler is Tee'd into the fat riser pipe into the bottom of the expansion tank.The oil cooler connections on the rad are blanked off. Thanks TSD, I guessed it was somthing like that but needed to be sure. Will, I dont have instructions, I bought it from Holland which seemed the cheapest option but when you add allthe bits that you dont know you need, it would have been cheaper to buy it from M&D with all their kit and knowhow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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