weatherm Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Hey Guys and gals. Just got me a descent 1980 series 3 2.25 petrol that has a few quirks and stuff. Anyways I'll post up pics asap. 1st question: Transmission is a bit tricky to find 1st and 2nd. Is this normal? Its my first time drivng on the other side of the vehicle so I know this has something to do with it. Also the Fairley OD makes a high pitch noise when its running and a little geary... Is this normal. I watched a youtube vid and his video made the same noise as mine. Seems like gear mesh... just wanted some opinions... 2nd question: Rear pinion seal area is leaking just a tad... do I just need to tighten the nut by taking off the drive shaft and hitting it with a air ratchet or is there a more subtle approach. I say this because there is no place in the prop shaft at all. Its nice and solid and not much leaks out at all. All in all I have a pretty good rover that doesn't leak much at all. Ill be asking plenty of noob questions later on so bare with me and nice to meet you guys ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Fairey overdrives to whine quite alarmingly - use it in 3rd/4th only and engage with the clutch, the same as any other gear. Try changing the gearbox oil (EP80/90), see if any bits of metal come out. The rear pinion nut is preloaded, so you can't nip it up if it's already correct. The seal may just be worn, but the drive flange may be also - the seal wears a groove in the contact area of the seal lip (known as the 'land') If this is the case, then a new flange and seal will cure the problem if the pinion bearings are ok. You can only accurately assess the condition of the pinion bearings with no load on them (prop off, and slack in the axle) Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weatherm Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 Ok gear box oil will be changed asap. Sounds good on the pinion directions. Well I can't get the frigin thing in my garage I have a full roof rack. Time to sawzaw the garage haha. The vehicle leans left in the rear. I have read and heard that the vehicle is setup to do that anyways b/c of the driver weight anticipation. I could be wrong. Both shocks have recent fluid coming out and the leaf springs are swollen with rust... not that bad but they are a concern. Since money is tight would the shocks need replacing first and then the leafs. I can't afford both at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 When you remove the gearbox drain plug to as Les has suggested change the oil, check the contents of the plug. You may find one or two pieces of 1st 2nd synchro hub (quite common) which would be the reason for your difficulty in changing gears. Also test to see if the box stays in 1st and 2nd gear by lifting off the throttle whilst driving along in each until the vehicle slows down to idling speed.Keep in mind that the absense of any shrapnel in the plug may simply mean that the previous owner has removed them before selling the vehicle. An overdrive that screams is really not worth having unless you occasionally have a need for a ratio between 3rd and top. The overdrives input shaft splines and its coupling gear are subject to extreme wear (a design fault) and may leave you stranded with no drive in some inconvenient location. Replace it with the standard transfercase mainshaft gear and PTO cover plate. Have a look in the underseat tool box. The owner may have carried it in case. Before attacking the pinion seal undo and check that the axle breather is not clogged. Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serious2a Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 In relation to the o/drive 'screaming', could it be anything to do with the oil level as distinct from viscosity? I mention this because I am unsure whether the level is supposed to be measured with the dipstick screwed fully home or simply laid on the top of the threads (as is the recommended way with Japanese motorcycles for example). Curiously, recently I moved an overdrive from my S2a into my S1 and it's noise increased markedly in the S1 ! I took it out again and got the hold of another o/drive and put IT in the S1 and the original one back in the S2a!. All is now quiet (or as quiet as you could reasonably expect) in both vehicles! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weatherm Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 I did fill the oil up some on the OD. I wasn't sure where to fill it if the line on the filler plug was full or empty. I put some oil in there and the noise did drop some. I have a transmission leak (I know its a rover) but its a considerable leak. I think I have tightened all I think I can. Any ideas other than a bad gasket? OD leaks some but I hear thats normal .... I got a fairly considerable leak right under the gearbox where that big crossmember is. In relation to the o/drive 'screaming', could it be anything to do with the oil level as distinct from viscosity? I mention this because I am unsure whether the level is supposed to be measured with the dipstick screwed fully home or simply laid on the top of the threads (as is the recommended way with Japanese motorcycles for example). Curiously, recently I moved an overdrive from my S2a into my S1 and it's noise increased markedly in the S1 ! I took it out again and got the hold of another o/drive and put IT in the S1 and the original one back in the S2a!. All is now quiet (or as quiet as you could reasonably expect) in both vehicles! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Probably oil seals, but series transmissions do leak, and there are certain leaks that you simply cannot do anything about. Around the selector rods is a good example of this. As to your 1st/2nd selection probelms check that the revers gear flap thingy is correctly adjusted (haynes manual shows you how) as this can make selection difficult if its incorrectly adjusted. If the trucks only got a slight lean, ignore it - you'll find one day it'll lean to the left, one day it'll lean to the right.......leaking shocks are an MOT fail so I'd change them first. If you arent going to use the roof rack regularly take it off as they make an enormous difference to fuel consumption and make it a PITA to get into car parks etc! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weatherm Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 Thanks for the heads up. Yes the selector rod area is my 1st choice of assumption. I'm taking the gearbox cover off today hopefully (ghetto rhino lining job) and yes it needs adjusting for sure. Ok nice ... I'm actually thinking about just redoing the whole suspension b/c the leaf springs are so rusted they are expanding and aren't straight anymore... shocks are leaking so why not go ahead and just do the whole thing. Only a matter of time before something snaps with this old stuff. Take the rack off...thats just madness.. Probably oil seals, but series transmissions do leak, and there are certain leaks that you simply cannot do anything about. Around the selector rods is a good example of this.As to your 1st/2nd selection probelms check that the revers gear flap thingy is correctly adjusted (haynes manual shows you how) as this can make selection difficult if its incorrectly adjusted. If the trucks only got a slight lean, ignore it - you'll find one day it'll lean to the left, one day it'll lean to the right.......leaking shocks are an MOT fail so I'd change them first. If you arent going to use the roof rack regularly take it off as they make an enormous difference to fuel consumption and make it a PITA to get into car parks etc! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serious2a Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 The line on the dipstick is definitely the "full" mark - the only question still remaining is, as I said above, do you screw the stick right in or lay it on top of the threads for a true "full reading" ? As for gearbox oil leaks, well...... The only REAL way to determine where it is coming from is the hard way ! i.e:- clean all around the box and o/drive, take it for a run, and then get underneath quick! There are at least half a dozen possible sources and you'll have to whittle this down by visual means until you find out where it is coming from. DON'T be tempted to overtighten the 1/4" bolts round the big rectangular plate - it will only distort and make matters worse if oil is leaking here. In fact it's a bad idea to overtighten ANYTHING with a gasket for the same reason. Replace the gasket (with a little silicone, for good measure) and nip up the bolts just normally. Bizarrely with a gearbox I once had in the S2a the oil transferred itself from the transfer box into the main box which eventually overflowed and had to be drained! Changed the gearbox (for a different reason) and was never troubled again! Bet that's a new one for most people! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 I've always checked the level with the stick screwed in. I don't know if that's right, but nothings gone pop yet Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Thanks for the heads up. Yes the selector rod area is my 1st choice of assumption. I'm taking the gearbox cover off today hopefully (ghetto rhino lining job) and yes it needs adjusting for sure. Ok nice ... I'm actually thinking about just redoing the whole suspension b/c the leaf springs are so rusted they are expanding and aren't straight anymore... shocks are leaking so why not go ahead and just do the whole thing. Only a matter of time before something snaps with this old stuff. Take the rack off...thats just madness.. Fit a set of parabolics and some decent shocks and you wont go far wrong. Just be aware that new springs will lift it further (may be even more difficult to fit into your garage!) I've never liked roof racks on landrovers! So many people drive round with them on, yet never actually use the damn things! Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_P Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 I had been following discussions about springs on the S2C Forums, and it appears it is very very difficult to get any decent standard springs these days. In other words, only poor quality ones are said to be available unless you go for parabolics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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