sotal Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 Another 10 hits with the rubber mallet saw the bearing removed. So that box is as stripped as I want to go, now I'm going to strip another box and hopefully find some more useable parts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 If its crunching in selecting 4th to 3rd, then the syncro unit is worn out. the springs wont make a difference. Its the syncro itself that will be worn. Its a common thing for these to wear out, you will probably need to replace it . The springs hold the outer synchro sleeve central to the hub member. The gear level (via the rod and fork) slides the hub towards the desired gear, and the springs carry the synchro rings to the gears' synchro cones, apply pressure to the contact faces and causing the gear and hub rpms to synchronise. With missing or broken springs, the hub cannot press the baulk rings against the gear cones, so no synchronisation will take place.Broken or missing springs will result in the same symptoms as worn baulk rings - the gears will tend to crunch on engagement unless the change is made very slowly or the clutch is double de-clutched to allow synchronisation. These springs do not hold the gear selection engaged in any way and have no influence over jumping out of gear, which is due to end float or bearing problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 I would just respring that and give it a try. Use genuine springs tho. I agree. there is nothing wrong with the hub unit, and the baulk rings look only slightly worn. What would stop the synchro unit working is the lack of pressure applied to the rings by the hub because of the missing springs, as I outlined above. If you have replaced the unit, keep this one as a spare and re-spring it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotal Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 Sorry been a while since I updated this post. Gearbox is now back together (only just) A few minutes ago I put the bellhousing back on, but now it's back together the mainshaft won't turn. My hopeful guess is that I'm in two gears? Is that likely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 Yes it is, I had that problem the second time. The other problem I had was bearings not quite seated properly, and the fractional increase in length meant that when i bolted up the bellhousing, it squeezed the assembly between the two ends. I took it all apart again, re-checked the bearings, and then reassembled it, getting it in 2 gears at the same time in the process! You did go round the bellhousing bolts bit at a time didnt you...not wang them up right tight one after the other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotal Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 Yes went round slowly with the bellhosuing bolts - something is not quite fitting right though. I've just done a couple of tests... Test 1. I removed the layshaft alltogether, and put the bellhousing on with the bellhousing seated the shaft would turn, but when the 4 bolts were tightened it locked up stiff - so pretty sure it's just down to the mainshaft. I used a drift to carry on tapping the rear bearing down the mainshaft, I didn't think it had moved at all but I could now turn the mainshaft by hand all though it did have some resistance. I tried drifting the bearing further on but it didn't seem to budge. I measured the length of shaft sticking out past the end of the oil seal. It sticks out 98mm, I checked on the spare suffix A box and that sticks out 100mm although the shaft looks quite different the threaded bit is longer on one than the other etc. Test 2. Having decided it was definatley the mainshaft at fault, I removed the 3/4 synchro hub as I was sure that would allow everything to turn then. I refiited the layshaft and replace the bellhousing. Now with reverse idler out of the way the shaft wasn't stuck solid but it would only move slightly either way Further things I did to see if I could find anything at fault... Checked front pinion bearing to make sure it was seated all the way - it seems to be seated perectly up on the shaft no spare room, and it seems to be seated correctly into the housing - so I don't think the issue is there. I then tried fitting the selectors - partly as a practice run for later, they seemed to drop in much easier than removing (although I did still have the 3/4 synchro out at this point) The reverse selector went in easily and has quite a large throw of movement the 1/2 selector went in but only moves about 5mm back and forward - is that correct? Seemed short to me - have I fitted the selector wrong or have I made a mistake on the mainshaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.