Orange Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Problem with the neighbour's P38. Searching has thrown up lots of solutions to the problems of a failed central locking solenoid, but ours is a more physical issue... Is there a method to get the tailgate open, or do I have to squeeze between the rear seats, gas tank and dog guard to do a fix from the inside?? TIA Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Are you telling us the solenoid operates, but doesn't unlock the upper tailgate? You don't really explain the problem, or what faults you are discounting as 'not that', nor why you are discounting them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 The central locking operates all 4 passenger doors from both the keyfob and the drivers door lock. The rear tailgate solenoid does not operate at all. It doesn't even make a noise like it's 'on it's way out', it just does nothing. The tailgate release button does not release anything, so I'm mainly looking for a way to get the tailgate open in order to investigate further... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Check the wiring in the driverside door. The wiring for the tailgate is on the same loom, and can get damaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Ahhh. Ta for the pointer. I'm guessing the damaged bit will be between the door pillar and the actual door inside the rubber conduit/trunking?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Most likely. The whole loom for the central locking is concentrated in the (RHD) drivers door, even for LHD models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Ahhh. Ta for the pointer. I'm guessing the damaged bit will be between the door pillar and the actual door inside the rubber conduit/trunking?? Not in my experience. The wire feeding the earth from the door switch is a separate wire that 'floats' in mid air below the latch, before it joins the loom towards the bottom of the door. It can be caught by the window on it's way down, especially if someone has been in the door to lubricate / change the latch or window regulator and disturbed the wiring. The window motor has the power to snap the wire without pausing for thought; there is a slight bang but it certainly doesn't stall. The other 'popular' damage point is corrosion in the multi connector in the lower half of the A pillar. To access either remove the side trim in the footwell, or pull off the rubber conduit from the A pillar and lift the connector into view. The trap here is to separate the connector then accidentally drop one end back into the pillar, where it remains strangely inaccessible. If you need to prove the fault forwards or backwards, fold the rear seat fully forwards and lift the carpet (easier said than done) to expose the wiring on the floor immediately behind where the RH rear seat normally sits. Apply an earth to the correct wire, and assuming fuse 15 is live, the button will be effective. You really need the ETM for this. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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