big ives Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 hi getting prepared for next week to do a full service on my td5 04 discovery, i do all my own work so any advice is greatly apprecated, i have rebuilt several landy 90 and worked on my old disco 1 i plan on changing all the fluids, i have most oils, just a quick question, the manual says to use 75w/90r oil in the transfer box and axles, is this the same spec as EP90? which i have loads of i want to change the brake fluid as well, is this just a matter of draining and replacing the brake fluid? or is there and electronic reason that i need to be watchfull of? the antifreeze calls for OATS some type of corrosion inhibitor, what product has this? many thanks Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 75W90 is a better spec than EP90 being a multigrade. This is LR's recommendation for the transfer box and diffs: http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_australia/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/s/Syntrax75W_90_B1278983.pdf No problems with the replacing the brake fluid (DOT 4). All major manuf make an antifreeze with OAT corrosion inhibitors. You name it and I'll find one for you. This is what LR recommends: http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_australia/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/a/AntifreezeSF0_B1834_05.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 If your vehicle has ABS then read a manual before replacing the brakefluid. For a RR there is a very lenghty procedure for brakefluid replacement, because of the ABS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Three types of anti-freeze currently available, identified by it's colour. Blue, green, and a rather attractive shade of pink, which is what you need. EP80/90 in the axles, you can use the same in the transfer case, but 75/90 is better. MTF94 in the gearbox, 5/30 semi or fully synthetic in the engine. Replacing the brake fluid won't create any problems as long as you take care not to introduce air into the system. Dextron II in the PAS, but normal ATF is fine as well. Other things to look out for - The three 13mm head bolts that hold the engine cover on are a very weak fitting, and the locknut that they fit into have a tendency to break - especially on the drivers side for some reason. The rocker cover gasket tends to leak and fitting a new one doesn't always cure the problem (a thin bead of rtv on the old seal is a better fix) On the front of the engine is a round plastic cap, this also has a habit of leaking. There's an O-ring on the cap, which flattens and then lets engine oil out. You can replace the ring, but again, a bead of rtv sealant will cure the problem. Look for fuel leak on the fuel pressure regulator - located on the drivers side rear corner of the head. Check for engine oil in the red plug on the ECU - on the side of the battery box. TD5's were recalled due to fuel pipe location by the tank, so look for any fuel leaks there as well (I think yours will be ok though) Be careful when replacing the fuel filter - the water sensor can easily strip if you over-tighten it. Check the level sensor arms - especially on the rear. The arms have a habit of splitting on the pivot point on the radius arm. Any oil by the hand brake drum? L/R did away with a gasket and used RTV sealant where the rear housing is fixed to the main body of the case, and it tends to leak oil there. Axle filler plugs are plastic, so are very delicate (21mm socket). Make sure they will come undone before you dump all the oil (bare 1/2" drive end to undo the drains - same as the trans filler plug, which is awkward to get at) Gearbox drain is 34mm spanner/socket, gearbox filler is torx driver. If you are changing the rotor filter, then be careful with the 2 x 10mm head bolts - they can round off very easily, and just as easily strip if you tighten them too much. If the canister oil filter is very tight - you can get a chain or strap wrench in there, but it's very tight. You might find it easier to disconnect the turbo oil drain pipe, which is retained to the turbo by 2 x 8mm bolts and then push the pipe down out of the way. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big ives Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 les many thanks for this comprehesive account of things to watch out for alot of good advise here................thanks if the 75/90 is a better spec oil then i will use it, and when my 90 needs the oil in the axles changed then the sae oil will do many thanks to everyone, thats why i ask my questions on this forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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