drivers door not locking

[turbomangler]

hi hope someone can help me out . i have a K reg 200 series V8 auto ( now with 200TDI manual box). up until recently the alarm and central locking have worked fine , but about a week ago i noticed the drivers door is not locking with the fob . all the other doors will lock and the alarm led flashes on the dash , if i open the drivers door the alarm goes off so everything seems to be working ok (touch wood ) apart from the drivers door not locking.

i removed the door trim and watched the actuactor as i pressed the alarm fob and the rod coming out of the actuator was only moving a few mill so was not enough to lock the door. i guessed this was faulty so i removed one from a spare (300series) door and removed mine but the plug on the wiring was different to mine . both have 5 wires but are different colours and plugs . i removed one from another door this had 2 wires . and another drivers door this had 4 wires and a different plug again.

is mine different because it was originaly a V8 and all the wiring is different ,or have they just changed over the years ?

how many of the 4/5 wires are used and does any one know the colour codeing for me to be able to cut my plug off the actuator and solder it to the other 5 wire one so it will plug into mt loom ??? any help and/or wiring diagrams apprechiated .. steve.

[cipx2]

There are about 3 or 4 configurations of the drivers actuator, depending 200/300 series, with/without alarm and depending on the market (Japan or non Japan).

The 2 wire actuator is no good for your driver's door configuration, keep it for the rest of the doors though.

Ideally you should get the same actuator with the same plugs/wire colors.

But maybe you can use one of the other 2 actuators.

First thing to check is if the wiring loom carries all 5 wires or only 4 of them (i.e on the wiring loom plug there are also 5 wires or only 4, 1 actuator wire might be unused and might stop at the actuator plug).

Then you can use an ohmmeter on your old actuator to identify:

- the 2 wires corresponding to the motor/solenoid (small resistance but not zero or couple of ohms) - after you are positive this are the solenoid wires, you can feed it with 12V and it should move one way or the other (reversing polarity makes it move the other way)

- the rest of the 3 wires should be: common (usually black - going to ground) and the rest of the wires corresponding to locked and unlocked positions - normally only the contact which is closed when the door is unlocked is used.

Same thing on the other 2 actuators. Hopefully they came from vehicles with factory alarm systems. If not, the actuators have some electrickery inside which are harder to identify and use in your config.

If you need further help, post the wires colors for the original actuator and for the 4 wire and the 5 wire actuators, maybe I can identify them.

Ideally, post pics of all 3 actuators with close ups on the plugs. If not, is there any of the 5 wire actuators having 2 separate plugs (4 pin + 2 pin)?

[teabag]

This diagram may help although it's not a Land Rover drawing Land Rover is a 4 wire system so if u have an actuator with a fifth wire thats an after market unit the fifth wire being a conrtol wire fron an alarm unit.

If you are still having probs why don't u repair the old actuator it's not working because the small motor inside has seized. You can split the case and remove the old hardend grease that surrounds the motors drive spindle and drive cog and re-lubricate with a dab of grease and WD40 to get the drive spindle spinning again,or drill a small hole in the case and inject some WD40 that may work or may not in getting the motor spinning again

[turbomangler]

This diagram may help although it's not a Land Rover drawing Land Rover is a 4 wire system so if u have an actuator with a fifth wire thats an after market unit the fifth wire being a conrtol wire fron an alarm unit.

If you are still having probs why don't u repair the old actuator it's not working because the small motor inside has seized. You can split the case and remove the old hardend grease that surrounds the motors drive spindle and drive cog and re-lubricate with a dab of grease and WD40 to get the drive spindle spinning again,or drill a small hole in the case and inject some WD40 that may work or may not in getting the motor spinning again

hi i will look at trying to get the old unit freed off i think , thanks fot the info . i had a quick look at opening up one of the spare units the other day but they must be glued together but will have another go , theres nothing to loose i have about 8 of them all together. u are incorrect tho when u say land rovers ones are all 4 wires . all the ones i have removed 4 and 5 wires are all genuine land rover ones as well as the 2 wire ones from the other doors. i have removed 2 that have been after market ones but they are totally different from the genuine ones . steve.