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Stub Axle roller bearing and oil seal + wheel bearings


jumpy
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Hey all, along with replacing my front wheel bearings, I'm also going to examine my CV joints to see what's what.

Main reason for doing this is play in bearings LHS which has already been tweaked up once already. I've found greyish oil under the rubber dust cap, on the splined end of the CV joint.

I'm thinking that the bearing wear has allowed play causing oneshot grease to leak from the swivel hub through the stub axle.

QUESTION: what's the best way to remove/replace the roller bearing and the oil seal inside the stub axle? Manual says 'landrover special tool' (some kind of slide hammer with fitting). Any recommendations for the DIYer?

QUESTION: I now have a hub box spanner, but the manual says about torquing up the wheel bearing preload. As I'm fitting new bearings/seals what's the 'best' way of doing this given that I cannot fit a torque wrench to my box spanner? I've read the guides about tightening up until there's resistance, then slackening off quarter/half a turn.

Also, how do I keep the inner nut from turning when I'm tightening the outer lock-nut (again without a torque wrench) to approximately 100nm (or is that ftlb?) or whatever the correct value is?

Any suggestions welcome. All I need now is a few fine days in a row :)

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QUESTION: I now have a hub box spanner, but the manual says about torquing up the wheel bearing preload. As I'm fitting new bearings/seals what's the 'best' way of doing this given that I cannot fit a torque wrench to my box spanner? I've read the guides about tightening up until there's resistance, then slackening off quarter/half a turn.

In my view a box spanner is the wrong tool for the job, you need something like http://shop.difflock.com/land-rover-spanner-tommybar-drive-p-32.html or http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/sp-2-11831-92503-sealey-impact-socket-52mm-1-2%201dsq-drive.asp that you can get a torque wrench on

Also, how do I keep the inner nut from turning when I'm tightening the outer lock-nut (again without a torque wrench) to approximately 100nm (or is that ftlb?) or whatever the correct value is?

The tab washer does that for you and it's 60Nm

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Cheers Niamh, I did wonder about the spanner thing - it wasn't expensive so no big loss. (besides, you can never have too many tools ;) )

Obviously my 'haynes big book of lies' is living up to its reputation; the section on wheel bearing replacement talks about holding the inner nut with a ring/open ended spanner, whilst tightening the outer lock nut to the specified torque. Quite how this is possible is a mystery to me.

I have all the values for tightening the preload etc from the rave manual, and would really prefer to do the job right.

Anyone have any recommendations for thread lock compound? Most of my local motor-factors sell locktight 241 (rave recommends 270? for calliper bolts iirc)

Ta.

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Anyone have any recommendations for thread lock compound? Most of my local motor-factors sell locktight 241 (rave recommends 270? for calliper bolts iirc)

Well it depends if your preference is for stick or liquid, I have 248 medium strength and 268 high strength sticks in my tool chest, and I've always used the 248 on brake caliper bolts whereas for example I'll use 268 on the swivel ball bolts.

241 is a medium strength locker so should be fine for caliper bolts

Niamh

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Thanks guys. Much obliged.

There's always the back up of my local garage chap - within walking distance so if the stub axle bearing/seal is troublesome then I'll see what he can do for a few quid.

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