monkeyb0y Posted July 19, 2010 Share Posted July 19, 2010 Hey All, i need some advice - im having worsening immobiliser problems which i think maybe spider related... Its a sensitive subject for public viewing so if need be, id be greatfull for PMs to tell me how to bypass the immobiliser?.. Its a 96 TDi 3dr....and occasionaly, when ive got in, the engine has just spun but not fired as im pretty sure fuel is not being allowed thru.. If I get out, lock it, leave it for 5mins, then unlock, key in - it will usually start... But, since last week, other things are happening - the most interesting when driving a short distance - the engine just died....i pulled up, turned key and it spun over quite healthily but i was fairly sure no fuel was getting through...as thou it had electronically switched off.. Left it for half hour - locked, unlocked then she fired up fine... Today, came out of work, and it just turned over...After some retrying, locking, unlocking, it eventually fired up... The little green box in the passenger footwell area ocasionally ticks - amd if knocked,will bring on the hazzards that cant be turned off unless car is locked with plipper. And, the led on dash will sometimes behave strange...I even suspect a loose wire or dry joint on this green box if it is linked?... I know youcan run wires from\to solenoids and bypass this menace - but im not sure where they need to go?..am i right in thinking the spider is near the radio \ heater controls area - and the green box is the ECU? Can anyone help \ PM me - id be greatfull.... Or maybe just advise if there maybe other areas im overlooking - and its not the spider?... Im not convinced its any other fuel flow related issue like filters or air getting in.. thanks Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted July 19, 2010 Share Posted July 19, 2010 Get one of the spider bypass plugs as referred to in the tech archive thread which I presume you've read? Permanent solution Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyb0y Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 thanks very much BM, just found it, ill try the repair first as my job is PCB maker and im fully happy with dry joints and track repairs Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterdon Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Is your "green box" fixed securely. It has an inertia switch which unlocks doors and starts hazard flashers in the event of an accident. If secured properly a knock shouldn't really set it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyb0y Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 lol...no it isnt....its hanging down on the footwell at the mo better sort that out then.... Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyb0y Posted July 25, 2010 Author Share Posted July 25, 2010 Well after it getting worse and getting worse, and last straw was getting stranded at morrisons today and gettin a tow home, I stripped the centre console out, and opened the spider...sure enough 2 dry / broken solder joints. All joints soldered and it seems ok. I'm sure its fixed it..and my post last night relating to the alarm going off was probably related. Big thanks bog monster for a great post on the definitive spider post....its pretty standard and easy to follow... I'm happier now...incidently I got breakdown cover with rac today for a fiver...which starts next week... I'm over the moon with this fix... Forum strikes again! Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steef Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Hi, I had the same problem, a teared solder contact. But before re-soldering I glued the start relais to the PCB to prevent it from tearing again. raptured relais pin on PCB (Middle) The start relais (black) is relative heavy and bumpy roads will stress the soldered contacts between the PCB and the relais(s) The White one is probably the relais interrupting the fuel solenoid. De-solder the relais using a suction pump or de-solder litze Here comes the trick, apply 2 component epoxy glue between the relais an the PCB to divert motion stress direct to the PCB. Do not use super glue, it will break. Resolder, job done.. Grtz, Stephan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Interesting idea I have never had a problem with repaired spiders breaking, and I've done quite a few, but that is definitely a more robust solution to repairing it. Thanks for posting it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyb0y Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 I believe we call em "dry joints" It's nice to be able to repair em and retain full functions of alarm, imobilisor etc.. Good job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountbattenman Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Ayup, just been reading this with interest as i am experiencing similar problems. can you tell me if your disco had EDC? i was wondering as one post says that vehicles with EDC don't have the spider fitted so not much point in ripping out the dash, let me know if you can, Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teabag Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Remove you radio head unit and you can see (with with the aid of a mirror on a stick) the spider if you have one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyb0y Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 No I don't believe edc controls have em....don't quote me...I think I read the same thing....luckily mine was a basic model.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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