Discovery 300 tDi Gerabox type

[matt bristol]

Hi all,

could anyone let me know how you identify which of the different gearbox types Ihave in my 300 TDi. I trawled through various sections of the forum to no avail (probably the next page after I gave up looking!) I only ask as I think there will be some impending gearbox/transferbox work coming up and thought maybe a replacement would be the quickest/cheapest option.

My Disco is a 1994 300TDi if that helps

thanks in advance

matt x

[MrKev]

If reverse if next to 1st gear, it's an LT77. If it's below 5th, it's an R380.

[Mark]

what kev said, but it should be an R380 on a 300tdi disco...

Assuming of course that it's a manual.

If it's an Automatic, then it will be a zf 4hp22

hth

Mark

[monkeyb0y]

How do you tell what revision or suffix it is for parts..might be what he's asking.?

Rich

[piper109]

Look at the markings on the side of the box. There is usually a shinier area of the casting that has been stamped with a letter. I believe on the r380 its on the side of the end where the transfer case bolts up, about 1/2 way up.

Time to get that led torch/flashlight to work.

Steve

[matt bristol]

Far more basic than asking for a suffix for parts, I now know that I have an R380 gearbox in my Discovery.

It struck me that the question was semi-redundant if I buy a gearbox with hte transfer box attached but still good to know, and thank you for your help

matt

[matt bristol]

Right,

once again I am here with a gearbox related question - slightly tenuous but here goes.

I've managed to undo all but one of the nuts which hold hte bell housing to the engine. Unsurprisingly the one left is hard to get at, I followed Les' guide and dropped the gearbox down on a trolley jack, but I just can't get it to budge. as you look at the rear of the engine its at 11 o'clock.

I've spent in the region of 7 hours trying to undo this one feckin nut and I am at the end of what I laughingly refer to as my patience. Any suggestions/ideas/magic potions/witch craft/loan of pixies etc would be greatly appreciated as I am now considering the 2 options left to me

1 remove engine and box to undo 1 nut

2 smash the c**p out of the disocvery with a big lump hammer and weigh it in (preferred option when annoyed but realistically not a good idea)

cheers

Matt

[bob86]

I spent hours trying all sorts to get that one off. In the end i borrowed a 15mm flexable head ratchet spanner from a mate. It does go back on easier than it comes off.

[elbekko]

A socket, a short extension bar, 2 joints right behind each other to form an 's' shape, then a few extensions so you have the space to turn it, et voila.

At least, that's how I did it on my RRC, that one was a right person I'm not that keen on

[matt bristol]

thanks chaps, I'm so glad I'm not the first person having trouble with this particular nut - i was starting to doubt my (albeit somewhat limited) mechanical skills

[dirtyninety]

take off your viscous fan and fan shroud, engine mountings, gearbox mountings, propshafts and exhaust and slide the entire thing forward 5inchs. (there is enough slack in almost all pipes accept top rad pipe) You should then be able to get at the bolts.

(also this is useful when putting a new clutch in because once the engine is free of the gearbox you can slide the gearbox back into its place and there's enough room to put a new clutch in)

Its a long solution to a small problem i know, but when your working alone and don't have all the rights tools etc it can be really useful.

[matt bristol]

take off your viscous fan and fan shroud, engine mountings, gearbox mountings, propshafts and exhaust and slide the entire thing forward 5inchs. (there is enough slack in almost all pipes accept top rad pipe) You should then be able to get at the bolts.

(also this is useful when putting a new clutch in because once the engine is free of the gearbox you can slide the gearbox back into its place and there's enough room to put a new clutch in)

Its a long solution to a small problem i know, but when your working alone and don't have all the rights tools etc it can be really useful.

I've taken so much off already I only need to undo the engine mounts and the fan/viscous thingy - may well end up giving htis a go tomorrow/today/sunday

[matt bristol]

Well jsut a quick update to thank all involved for their advice and help, at last I have managed to finally undo the annoyig 15mm nut that wanted to stay put.

I used a comination of about 7 different extension bars and a lump hammer to persuade the socket onto the nut. Previously this nut has been rounded off when removing hence the difficulty getting hte socket on and stay there! So now its all plain sailing... once I get the gearbox/bell housing to actually part company with the engine - cue lump hammer. i have a sneaking suspiscion this is not going to be the easiest of tasks either, however I have a large selection of percussion maintenance devices available for the job

cheers

Matt

[matt bristol]

Just like to give a big thank you to everyone that helped me keep my sanity via this forum whilst trying to repair the clutch op. arm. I must say I was pleasantly surprised once I had removed all the nuts at how 'easy' the engine and box parted company, also the relief that it didn't weigh quite as much as I had built myself up to expect.

In summary after 3 or 4 days of tinkering, removing stuff, losing bits and generally getting confused, I managed to weld the broken arm in about 39 seconds (probably less) followed by about 2 and half hours to get it all back together. Luckily I found the copper grease just as I ws putting the last of the tools away but not to worry with my luck it will all need to come apart again long before the LM I put in there dries out.

Isn't it funny ahow quickly all the heart ache and despair melts away once you get the elated feeling of something actually working as it should for five minutes, lets hope my welding is better than it looks...