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Everything posted by elbekko

  1. Mirroring the screen could maybe be done with Mirrorlink or similar? Then you're not dependent on Android Auto. Maybe in your case it would be easier to just send the analog video signal through the trailer plug (in case of a 13-pin with some spare pins) and plug it directly into the aux video port?
  2. My problem with that is I already have one or two screens in the car - why would I want yet another one?
  3. I feel your pain. I've looked into it in the past, and all you can find are either only compatibly with ****ty Chinese apps, or analog video with a wire... It can't be that hard to find a 12V BT/wifi IP camera, right? The Chinese ones are just slightly too expensive to buy one and see if I can make it work without the app...
  4. I found recently, when driving through dark and frozen Sweden, that it was rather nice to have the high beam on for far-away viewing, and the flood lightbar for lighting up the road just in front of the car (and the trees next to the car). It was perfect for showing that little sparkle on the road that gives away the snow has turned to ice, long before you start feeling it. Couldn't see that that well with just the high-beam on.
  5. I think it's honestly not *that* bad. Remove some of the tacticool carp and maybe have a slightly classier interior, and you have a pretty nice camper setup. It's obviously not meant for rock crawling, but the breakover/departure angle is at least a lot better than a regular camper van.
  6. Not that it's really relevant to me, but would that apply only to the low-beam lamps, or also the high-beam lamps as found in fe. a P38, where there's a separate set of H1s for the high beams?
  7. That's pretty much the premise of CANbus. Except there are things that are latency-sensitive you can't control that way, like injectors. But yes, everything else could be reduced to 3 wires. Absolutely, and Tesla isn't alone in doing OTA updates. LR is doing it for the new Defender too. They'll still charge you ludicrous amounts of money for whatever you need them to do though. Plus you need to be in cell range. Having open protocols, open source software and standard connectors is what makes a car full of electronics home-serviceable and upgradeable. They're still a black bo
  8. I honestly have no such problem with the multibeam LED on my Mercedes. But that's also a bit different class to aftermarket LEDs.
  9. I've always disconnected the battery when reconditioning with the CTEK for that reason. Most vehicle electronics should be able to take it, but still... Regular charging shouldn't be pulsing, so should be ok.
  10. Isn't that going to make you mildly moist in the rain? And especially with the tyres sticking out well past cheeky, water/salt/stones/mud/small children will be chucked right in there.
  11. Now that'd be something
  12. It's trailer wiring... of course a rewire is necessary.
  13. From what I've read, as long as you don't allow the engine to idle, stopping/starting shouldn't matter much.
  14. Keep steady somewhere around 2000rpm for 20 minutes.
  15. Could maybe be as simple to see what goes in vs what comes out? As I've understood from this thread a dead battery happily accepts many amps, but doesn't give them back? So once you get 10Ah out and 20Ah in, you know something is off.
  16. Depends on how generic the OBD is. Basic code reader probably can't, but there are plenty of non-LR scantools that should be able to do it. A good independent probably has something that'll do it.
  17. I put closed-cell Recticel against my roof (house, not shed), with the idea that it being closed-cell a bit of moisture wouldn't matter too much. The stuff is hard to find at the moment though... Have you got a picture of what it looks like? I'm having trouble picturing it.
  18. Could be worth finding someone that can reset the adaptive values.
  19. When did the Freelander ever have low range?
  20. Can't get much easier than this: At the workshop we have a device that has a big resistive load in it, and a gauge showing the voltage while the load is applied. Works pretty well too.
  21. Oh, that's alright, a few people think we're brothers although we're not. And we usually hang out in the same places/threads...
  22. I'm not Filip, that's @Escape But yes, just swap it out for a regular yellow one like is used in the fuse box (for example for the heater windscreen).
  23. Should be under the LH seat, the big black relay.
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