Jeff Young Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 At some point I'll need to restore the galvanized cappings on my IIa 109 SW (they were painted by a PO). Whether or not they need galvanising, they'll need to come off to strip down (and to re-spray the bodywork underneath). I've done plenty of pop-riveting in my day, but I notice that the parts book specifies solid rivets where both sides of the rivet are exposed. I've probably only formed 3 or 4 solid rivets in my life, but they took about 5min each (as opposed to about 10 seconds for a pop rivet). Does one get vastly faster forming the solid ones after they've done it a few times, or do most people just go with pop rivets all around? Thanks, Jeff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 If you use one of these of the correct size for the solid rivet you are using, one good smack and job done! But you could always use a good quality sealed pop rivet, alot easier!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Young Posted December 18, 2010 Author Share Posted December 18, 2010 Interesting. I thought one had to "rough-form" the rivet before using the setting tool (or whatever it's called). I'll have to get a couple sizes of those and play around a bit. Thanks, Jeff. (I assume the sealed pop-rivets still produce more of a bubble than a mushroom on the back side, which I suppose would be more likely to snag clothing, etc.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Interesting. I thought one had to "rough-form" the rivet before using the setting tool (or whatever it's called). (I assume the sealed pop-rivets still produce more of a bubble than a mushroom on the back side, which I suppose would be more likely to snag clothing, etc.) Sealed pop-rivets give the closest to a mushroom as you get with a solid rivet, comared to say blind or peel rivets, so you shouldnt get snagged on them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 much easier to use sealed 'pop' rivets, getting a reaction tool in behind the panels will need a helper or a octopus & still isn't as quick or convienent as using pop rivets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longlandy Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 Depends on your skill level, rover used snap rivets for a reason though. If you go that route make sure they are annealed and some alloy rivets can go 'off' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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