Jump to content

RR classic


g&t

Recommended Posts

Following an un-successful forum search, can I raise the old chesnut of rainwater collecting in the bulkhead bonnet hinge housings on '86> Classics. Has anyone improved on LR's rubbish design that allows water to drain off the scuttle/bonnet into these cavities? At the moment I resort to pushing a wad(s) of paper towel (her indoors is still trying to sus out where all the kitchen towel goes!)into the cavity & withdrawing it when the rainwater has been soaked up. Would a square of rubber, slotted over the hinge & covering the opening when the bonnet is closed do any good? I can't see how to get a drill bit against the bottom of the cavity to make a drain hole & if the car was ever parked on any sort of slope the hole would'nt be at the lowest point anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine does this, I bought some 9mm sticky foam from a caravn dealer and fitted it to the back of the bonnet. It does get peeled off sometimes though but has stopped the water ingress.

Also you can add some ali tape or duct tape to the very bottom of the hinge cut-out in the gutter to raise the lip slighlty and stop water running into the hinge box,

Defintley a design flaw though but only seems to effect the later RRC so badly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, as you say Old Hand - a bloody silly design :( Luckily mine is a mid 'eighties with the (alleged) better steel & is also heavily Waxoyled but I still don't like the idea of standing water in the bulkhead. I'll try the 'sealer strip' idea myself but meanwhile it looks like the kitchen towel will keep vanishing!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As in Steve's photo there are drain holes either side of the hinge bracket. If it is filling up with water the drain holes must be blocked. This would mean that all the water getting in through the air vent area is also being trapped in there.

Thanks Rangie but I can't see the drain holes you refer to in Steve's pics. Would I be right in assuming that access requires the removal of the decker panel? Seems like an extreme measure just to clear drain holes, but then we are talking LR here!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Rangie but I can't see the drain holes you refer to in Steve's pics. Would I be right in assuming that access requires the removal of the decker panel? Seems like an extreme measure just to clear drain holes, but then we are talking LR here!

The white filler highlights the drain holes either side of the hinge support in the photo. The system then drains out the side of the panel. You can see the end drain point if you look underneath the decker plate where it curves down either side. Look in the cavity between the top of the front fenders and the decker panel.

The end drain point on the side of the firewall can be seen in the photo below just above what appears as brown marks on the side.

post-21949-0-06192700-1299067751_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The end drain point on the side of the firewall can be seen in the photo below just above what appears as brown marks on the side.

post-21949-0-06192700-1299067751_thumb.jpg

Many thanks for all that Rangie, I'll have a poke around this weekend.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update : using a length of stiff wire I'm unable to locate the drains in the hinge mountings, but examination of the end drain holes at the sides of the firewall reveals no sign of blockages :) Meanwhile, as I've said before - looks like the kitchen towel again after an overnight rain, Tesco's will be pleased even if 'her indoors' isn't.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Time to remove the scuttle panel! However, where it passes under the bottom windscreen seal it will likely be stuck to the sealing mastic used on the screen and being an ally' panel it will bend/buckle easily so best to get a scalpel blade and slice it between the scuttle and windscreen seal during removal to try and break the bond.

Another big problem if you have 'bucket' hands is getting the scuttle bolts and nuts undone as access is very limited. Be prepared to spend many, many minutes with a 1/4" ratchet driver undoing them 1 click at a time..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Time to remove the scuttle panel! However, where it passes under the bottom windscreen seal it will likely be stuck to the sealing mastic used on the screen and being an ally' panel it will bend/buckle easily so best to get a scalpel blade and slice it between the scuttle and windscreen seal during removal to try and break the bond.

Another big problem if you have 'bucket' hands is getting the scuttle bolts and nuts undone as access is very limited. Be prepared to spend many, many minutes with a 1/4" ratchet driver undoing them 1 click at a time..

Thanks Steve :( For me that's a workshop job so I'll have to give it some thought.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy