No poking.

[Frogland]

The weather 's picking up so to keep me occupied Hilda revealed a bit of rot !! I haven't been tempted to poke it with a screwdriver (scared to)it seems to have gone quite far in. will an xmember with extensions cover it ? and where's the best supplier ? and how does one deal with the fuel tank when doing the welding- does it have to come off ?

[Les Henson]

Looks fairly typical to me, but you won't know until you bash it a bit with a hammer to determine how bad the corrosion is. If the rot is only on the outside face of the chassis, then no need to remove the tank. You should bear in mind that the wiring loom is inside there, but it can be plated with some care.

Les.

[Frogland]

Looks fairly typical to me, but you won't know until you bash it a bit with a hammer to determine how bad the corrosion is. If the rot is only on the outside face of the chassis, then no need to remove the tank. You should bear in mind that the wiring loom is inside there, but it can be plated with some care.

Les.

Nc

if I bash it with with a hammer it will cave in ! There's a lot of IT on the underside also it goes up to where the holes are.If it was just on the side I would have considered patching but I know it needs more.I've looked at pictures of new crossmembers with extensions it's difficult to gage if they will cover the corrosion.

[Les Henson]

Some 110 rear crossmembers with extensions goes all the way to the spring seat, so it'll cover the area in your picture. If it was just the one side and the crossmember itself was ok, I'd go for a repair.

This thread may help (but not a lot, as I had to modify the crossmember a hell of a lot before it would actually fit). http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=24885

Also - what they usually look like (providing you don't have to hack it about to get the thing to go on ) http://forums.lr4x4....=1

Les.

[Frogland]

Thanks. Is anyone making half-decent xmembers now ? Has anyone got a pic of a repair,without replacing the whole thing,I mean is just a question of welding on a patch ?

[Les Henson]

Bearmach do good quality crossmembers, which I tend to use the most. Richards Chassis now sell them as well I think. The corrosion in your pic is coming from the inside, so the repair is likely to be significantly bigger than you might think. Cut out the rust, clean the surrounding metal where the weld will be (clean metal is very important for a good weld). Overlap the plate by an inch or so, tack in place, then seam weld. Tart up with a flap wheel or grinding disc before painting/waxoyl/etc.

Les.

[pete3000]

Bearmach do good quality crossmembers, which I tend to use the most. Richards Chassis now sell them as well I think. The corrosion in your pic is coming from the inside, so the repair is likely to be significantly bigger than you might think. Cut out the rust, clean the surrounding metal where the weld will be (clean metal is very important for a good weld). Overlap the plate by an inch or so, tack in place, then seam weld. Tart up with a flap wheel or grinding disc before painting/waxoyl/etc.

Les.

and don't forget to move your wiring/fuel lines/tank out of the way first.