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Engine Wont Start: LR S3 Petrol


zul69

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I left the LR for about 3-6 months without starting it. It was ok the last time I drove it. Last week, I put a battery and try to start her up. The starter motor turns the engine, but it wont fire/start. Check the ignition and they are ok; sparks on every sparking plugs.

I noticed something a bit strange. The stater motor seemed to be too free, meaning it turns so easy and fast, like no load or no compression. Haven't done the compression test just yet, but will do it this weekend.

However, just out of curiosity, what could be the problem? Can the head gasket go bad just standing there? Or could it be the sealing on the valves' faces become bad due to the car being left there for a few months (from rust, maybe?)? It baffles me somewhat.

Has anyone out there experienced the same thing as I do? Please someone shed some lights to this 'mystery' (lol).

Thanks in advance.

zul

malaysia

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If it seems like there's no compression then some of the valves could be stuck open. Remove the rocker cover and give each rocker a tap with a hammer where they contact the top of the valve stems and they should 'bounce' and free off. If the petrol is coming through it should then fire up.

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Sometimes all the oil drains from the bores - leaving the rings dry. A drop or 2 of oil down each plug hole may magically restore some compression and let the engine function normally.

In fact vigorous pumping of the throttle can shoot loads of petrol into the engine which will wash the oil from the bores. Same cure.

Oil will burn off harmlessly when the engine fires.

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Hi guys,

I have done the compreesion test on the Green LR S3 (the one with faulty engine). Results:

Piston 1 = 120 psi

P2 = 130 psi

P3 = 120 psi

P4 = 120 psi

Filled some oil thru spark plug holes. Results:

P1 = 150 psi

P2 = 150 psi

P3 = 140 psi

P4 = 140 psi

I cranked the engine for a few minutes in short durations (maybe 20 seconds). Fit the spark plug and try to start the engine. Engine wont start. Pull the plug lead, distributor cap, rotor and HT wires and fit into the other running LR S3 (Grey). It fires right up (Grey LR), meaning there is nothing wrong with the rotor, dist cap, HT wires of the faulty LR (Green). Even swapped the known good one from the Grey LR to the Green LR. Still the Green one wont start. I test the compression on No 3 Piston on the Grey LR, results around 120 psi.

Took the rocker cover off. And all valves and rockers seem to be running ok. Oil is pumping ok.

I am quite baffled by this, as normally I am quite good with engine and things (lol).

Please, please, anyone out there must have experienced something like this on the LR S3. My last resort is posssibly to call a shaman/witchdoctor so that he can weed out the evil spirits that is 'possessing' the Green LR (lol).

Thanks guys

zul

malaysia

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Have you checked that the petrol is getting to the carburettor? Sometimes the lift pump will fail or become a bit ineffective after a lay up.

Test - Disconnect the fuel line from the carb and point it into a bottle/jar or whatever. When cranking, fuel should spurt out of the fuel line into the bottle after a second or so. If it doesn't, then there is a problem with the lift pump, or possibly a blocked fuel line, or no petrol in the tank.

If fuel does spurt out, do the spark plugs get wet after cranking? If not, then the carb jets may be blocked. Test - take air pipe off the carb, and while engine is cranking, spray some WD 40 or similar into the carb. If the engine tries to start, then there is a problem with the carb or fuel system as above.

Good luck,

Regards, Diff.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

Managed to get the engine run last Sunday after a series of attempts.

The engine not wanting to fire despite sparks on all four plugs, so I checked the vacuum and centrifugal advance thing. They both seemed not to work properly. When I 'roughly' checked the timing of the compression and the location of the 'rotor' arm, it seems to be way out of timing. Seems to be a bit retarded. So I turn the distributor body clockwise (a bit only, maybe about 1/16th - 1/8th of a turn) to advance the timing a bit (the rotor moves counterclockwise). Then I crank the engine, and it starts firstime. I am so over the moon about it. The only thing that I wonder, how the hell that this happen after about 3-4 months of not running. Nobody was messing with the LR. How can this happen? Could it be the vacuum/centrifugal advance mechanism stuck due to rust?

It baffles me, to be honest. But on the happy side, the engine runs now.

Thanks for the helps.

zul

malaysia

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