Jump to content


Settled In
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About Farmerfred

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Farmerfred


    All else failing, disconnect and clean all wiring connections within that circuit starting with the fuse holder by using a thin bit of fine wet and dry and poking into it or use switch cleaner if you can't get anything in there. Dirty or corroded connections are often the cause of fuses blowing as the flow of current gets restricted and the resistance builds up which causes heat which in turn causes the fuse to blow. Check and clean any earth connections in that circuit as well.
  2. Farmerfred

    Securing lights !

    Drill a hole through the bolt thread below the nut and press in a roll pin. You could also rig up a motion operated battery powered security light that covers the Defender. Report the theft to the Police, they will give you a crime number which you will need to give to your insurance Company to make a claim, no crime number, no claim.
  3. Farmerfred

    headlight bulb upgrade options

    The legal requirement in Wattage for headlamp bulbs is 55/60W but you can get brighter illumination from certain bulbs of the same wattage, anything above that power are regarded as 'off road' and when more powerful bulbs are fitted in driving/spot lamps they must extinguish when the headlamps are dipped. More power, more heat so remember that a lighting relay must be wired into the loom to control the Amperage and make sure that the existing wiring is of a sufficient Amperage rating to carry the current otherwise things melt and catch fire. Courtesy to other and oncoming traffic needs to be practiced, how many time I wonder have all of us been virtually blinded by oncoming vehicles, it seems that modern vehicle headlamps are far brighter now, although they are within the Law in the Wattage rating it is the 'lumens' which have increased which gives the brightness, at present the lumens are not restricted but complaints have been such that the Government is looking into it.
  4. Farmerfred

    Defender 2.4 TDci Power loss at high speed

    Next things to look at is the EGR and waste gate to see if they are functioning as they should, one or the other or both may be carboned up.
  5. Farmerfred

    Defender 2.4 TDci Power loss at high speed

    First thing to check is the turbo hoses, a soft hose tends to collapse and restrict air flow or you may have a split in one. Start with the simple things.
  6. Farmerfred

    Injector Pump Noise

    After a lot of processes of elimination and ringing nearly all the LR specialists in the Country and getting nowhere the cause of this noise has finally been found, and even that was only by pure chance. The problem was with one of the plastic fuel lines having chafe marks on it which were deep enough evidently to cause air to be pulled in but no fuel leaking out, new pipe fitted, noise gone! The chaffing was discovered after the engine finally decided to miss and loose power and subsequent inspection of the fuel lines in greater detail and replacing said line has now cured the problem of the noise. Thanks to all for the input.
  7. Farmerfred

    Is This Genuine? 300tdi oil filter housing

    Doing a Google search it seems to indicate that the seller has found a few of these from ex military stock, there are 3 brands, Replacement, Britpart and Land Rover with the price tag of £173.83. £186. 40. and £288.18 all inc VAT respectively. It's description is 'oil filter adaptor 300TDi 1983-2006.
  8. Farmerfred

    Is This Genuine? 300tdi oil filter housing

    If in the description it was shown in or with the LR box but arrived with you in a blue box then apart from being of suspicious origin/manufacture it's not as described and as said falls foul of Trade Description Act, return it if you have any doubts and buy one from your local LR parts shop, that way you have more control on what you're buying and can return/replace it if it's not correct.
  9. The short answer here is that they all fade if you keep pressure on the pedal. Don't keep hard pressure on the pedal and it won't fade.
  10. Farmerfred

    Wiring loom damage

    Forgive me if I've missed something but does all electrical equipment on the vehicle still work?, all lighting, starting etc.? If it all works then it must be a loom that had been left and not removed after a previous owner had installed a replacement perhaps, if that's the case then there's nothing to worry about, you would be chasing ghosts.
  11. Farmerfred

    A few queries about my Defender project

    As you may or may not know, I have had my 1994 300TDi 90 Defender County rebuilt over this year, A friend of mine who has been in the body repair and garage business for more years than I can remember and in his younger days worked in a garage that specialised in insurance repairs and he was the body man, did the work, new galv chassis and all new running gear apart from the axles, new foot wells, battery box, plus, plus plus. He didn't work on it 24/7, it took him 7 months and his labour charge was £25 an hour, in total he put 80 hours into it. I bought and supplied all the parts as I could reclaim the VAT as and when he needed them. The total cost came out at around 5K but being able to reclaim about 1K of VAT helped a lot but at the end I have a vehicle that will last me out and has been valued in excess of 10K. I could have bought another later model for between say 8K-9K but 12 months on could very well have the same issue. The list of parts put into this ran to 7 A4 sheets, a lot of parts, nuts, bolts, washers and other small parts were only pence but those pence add up to pounds. Hope this Tetsu0san gives you some idea of what you're in for and what you could end up with. My only parting advice to you would be, whatever needs doing, do it, don't skimp on anything.
  12. Farmerfred

    A few queries about my Defender project

    Well. I'm glad you're sticking with it, they all deserve saving and it's only the dedicated enthusiasts like yourself that can do this, I just hope that what you're going to need to put into it will be economically viable, if done properly you will have a Defender that should be worth between 5K to 7K. The only thing I would throw caution at though is the chassis, if there is any rot in it don't bother patching it up, it will not be worth it in the long term, invest in a new galv chassis, that will cost you around 2.5K and stripping the 90 and rebuilding it will throw up any other issues like rust and corrosion which can also then be addressed, no point in skimping, do what needs to be done and you'll have a vehicle that will last you another 22 years.
  13. Farmerfred

    A few queries about my Defender project

    Is it really worth it? From what I can see you're going to have to spend a shed load of money putting it right, I'm not saying it's impossible and beyond it but looking at that under bonnet fire aftermath you may be better off parting it out for spares and spending the money on something in roadworthy condition. Who knows what you'll find when you dive into it.
  14. Farmerfred

    Love this new Defender

    You can put lipstick on a pig but at the end of the day it's still a pig.
  15. Farmerfred

    Leaking diff pan - temporary repair?

    Basically the same stuff as Araldite 2 part epoxy, only real difference is that with glass fibre resin and hardener it usually comes in larger containers whereas Araldite is in a handy twin 'syringe' pack so it won't cost you as much and it will keep longer.

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy