JeffR Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 The body cappings on my 110 have a few small holes in em. Seems a bloody shame to replace them, when, if I can aquire some not too knackered 2nd hand ones I can simply let new sections in. Now rather than have to remove them to do this, I thought about doing them in situ using this stuff: http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-welding-tools/cold-front-414ml.html Simple question, does this stuff actually work. Second question, if it does has anyone got a not too knackered capping they don't want? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 Can't comment on the cold front stuff, however changing the cappings isn't a difficult job - there's a thread on here (somewhere) with photos which could possibly help?. Fit yourself some glavanised cappings, and then forget all about rust/holes/repairing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robhybrid Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 truck cab models are galved and hard top models are not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 It is not a problem changing the body cappings, it just bugs me that I have to bin something that is only rotten for 2 inches of its length. I like fixing things!!! But one question remains, why do the body cappings always rot (ON 110'S) in exactly the same place (where they weld the extension bit on)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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