Anti Roll bar and Lift kit

[NicTheOrange90]

My 90 does not have an anti roll bar and does not look like it was ever fitted (X MoD) as I bought it direct.

The Disco had a 3"procomp lift, and when I drove it back, thought the handling was a bit 'bad mannered' so will probably get a set of bushes or front radius arms to counteract (any thoughts)...

The rear had an anti-roll bar fitted, which I removed (its in the back of the garage) and my question is, are they better left on or can they be modified with spacers to allow the lift to take better effect.

The Disco is not going to be used for serious holes, but green lanes and mud (keeping the 90 for the white knuckle stuff). It has 255/75 R16 MTs on it and its going to spend 60/40 on the road/mud so needs to not wallow around. Will have a fully belly as its got to carry around the family and our kit on green lane & fun days.

have had a look on previous posts, but purchasing a motor that has had some parts of the lift kit fitted but not the whole thing.

Thanks

[Diff]

My 90 does not have an anti roll bar and does not look like it was ever fitted (X MoD) as I bought it direct.

The Disco had a 3"procomp lift, and when I drove it back, thought the handling was a bit 'bad mannered' so will probably get a set of bushes or front radius arms to counteract (any thoughts)...

The rear had an anti-roll bar fitted, which I removed (its in the back of the garage) and my question is, are they better left on or can they be modified with spacers to allow the lift to take better effect.

The Disco is not going to be used for serious holes, but green lanes and mud (keeping the 90 for the white knuckle stuff). It has 255/75 R16 MTs on it and its going to spend 60/40 on the road/mud so needs to not wallow around. Will have a fully belly as its got to carry around the family and our kit on green lane & fun days.

have had a look on previous posts, but purchasing a motor that has had some parts of the lift kit fitted but not the whole thing.

Thanks

The dodgy handling could be partly due to the steering not self centering. If you go over 2 inches of lift, you may need some form of castor correction on the front. You can refit the rear anti roll bar, but to get it to work effectively, you need to put spacers between the chassis mounts and the antiroll bar mounting brackets in order to move the bar down towards its standard height and working angles in relation to the axle. In theory if you have a lift of 2 inches over standard ride height, then you want a 2 inch spacer each side to lower the anti roll bar from the chassis.

Regards,

Diff

[Andy]

^^^^ wot he said, plus if you dont space the anti-roll bar it can turn the links upside down when the suspension flexes then you get alsorts of odd problems

[Budgie]

Again, I'm with Diff about the caster correction.

With a +3" lift the steering is nasty and wanders all over the place, I ended up with corrected radius arms. This sorted the steering but caused problems with the front propshaft cos' they alter the angle of the diff and you end up with the U/J on the diff end of the propshaft nearly straight and the one of the transfer box end nearly binding, this sets up a nice vibration!

A double cadan front prop from a TD5 Disco sorted it out though.

You can get caster sorrection radius arm bushes that do the same job ( Devon 4x4 sell them) but I've heard that they don't last very long, although I've never tried them so can say from experience.

IIRC Tomcat used to make corrected swivel housings, which keeps the axle at the same angle it is now and avoids the propshaft problems, but I've not seen them around for a while.

With the ARB's, you can use the solid alloy spacers you get for tow hitches, the hole spacing is just about right and they are a good overall size for the job.