calibrate/set timing chain correctly

[isbjorn]

Hi. Ive just done a stupid thing and need some help fixing it.

Ive just remounted a head and it seams to me that the timing chain has moved a step or two while I had the head of. I did not use the colored links and lined them up as I should have according to the workshop manual. The reason I think so is because:

1.She is hard to start, only works with full throttle.

2. White smoke (not water)

3. Vert bad power on all gears and revs.

How do I solve this. I assume I can remove the head cover and then put...?

Many thanks for any tips or help.

ps.

Ive learned the following:

1. Read the workshop manual first.

2. Think if its really a cleaver thing to do by yourself

3. Read the manual again.

4. Follow the manual or don't do it.

[western]

which engine ??

you should be able to reset the timing without removing the cylinder head again.

[isbjorn]

Its a TD5 1999 defender... sorry forgot to write..

[Les Henson]

The bright links have to be set on the crank and camshaft sprockets. Usually, you set the bright links in their respective positions, lock the flywheel with a locking pin (No1 piston at TDC). The crank bright link corresponds with a pip on the crank sprocket in the 6 0-clock position. The camshaft bright link will be at 12 o-clock - also corresponding with a pip on the sprocket. There's a second timing pin that should then slot in from the top-front of the camshaft retainer. With the marks in this position, you slacken the 3 sprocket bolts, then tension the chain, tighten the three bolts, and the timing is set. Your problem is going to be in setting the lower timing mark, which you cannot see.

From what you describe - you are a tooth retarded.

Les

[isbjorn]

Ok, thanks. Ill give it a go today.

[isbjorn]

Am i correct that you mean that my pistons are slightly behind, so i should rotate the engine counterclockvise ( without camshaft wheel attached ) ?

[Les Henson]

That rather depends if the camshaft moved, or the chain did. Ignoring the chain - the crank is locked with a pin, the cam is also locked with a pin, so that the timing is set before fitting the chain The bright links and pips on the sprockets are only there if you do other work that requires timing being interfered with, such as head removal. It's unlikely that the chain bright link has moved on the crank, so you could seperate the sprocket from the camshaft, turn the engine a small amount until the crankshaft locking pin fits, then set the cam on it's timing mark and reattach the cam sprocket. You'll need to remove the chain tensioner in order to do this and make sure there's no slack in the chain on the right hand side of it's run. Always turn the engine twice by hand in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise), to check that at least there's no valve/piston contact. If the engine turns ok by hand, then to check is all ok - insert the crank timing pin, then the cam timing pin as well. If they are both aligned, then the timing is set correctly.

Les.

[isbjorn]

Ok. so I guess I have to remove the sump and use the timing pins to set it 100% correctly. Ive been testing my way millimeter by millimeter but its not a good method. It also seams that some one else has been in the engine because the chain marks are off by 1/4 turn, but thats the way it was when we removed the head.

Another question related to this. When we run the engine the chain setting we have now, if we idle up we get a kind of thumping noise (we have rotated the engine by hand first so no touching) relative to the rpm. But only on hi revs. Could this be because the timing is wrong as well or should we start looking for other causes?

Many thanks for all the help. I love this forum (and the ipod app for it)

[isbjorn]

Ive set the calibration by using the original land rover tools, and still got the same problems. So the error is some where else.. Ill start a new thread on the error codes instead.