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Manifold torque setings


Psycho Sarah

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Hi, newbie here to this forum.

Last year I had to replace the exhaust manifold on my S3 2.25 petrol as i'd stripped the threads where the downpipe manifold studs are located, and so was unable to get a perfect seal, thus causing backfiring on overrun, and as loss of power etc

The Exhaust/Inlet manifold nuts torque settings is listed as 17lbf ft, as is the manifold/engine block settings.

Neither the workshow manual nor the Haynes Book of Lies mentioned the torque settings for the downpipe nuts. So far, I've only really done them up just a little more than finger tight, as i don't want the hassle of changing the manifold again, but now I'm driving the landy during the summer months, i'm starting to get fed up with them working loose again.

Anyone know what the correct torque setting should be?

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Hi, newbie here to this forum.

Last year I had to replace the exhaust manifold on my S3 2.25 petrol as i'd stripped the threads where the downpipe manifold studs are located, and so was unable to get a perfect seal, thus causing backfiring on overrun, and as loss of power etc

The Exhaust/Inlet manifold nuts torque settings is listed as 17lbf ft, as is the manifold/engine block settings.

Neither the workshow manual nor the Haynes Book of Lies mentioned the torque settings for the downpipe nuts. So far, I've only really done them up just a little more than finger tight, as i don't want the hassle of changing the manifold again, but now I'm driving the landy during the summer months, i'm starting to get fed up with them working loose again.

Anyone know what the correct torque setting should be?

Try 17lbs/ft same as the rest as they are the same thread so that wont strip them.

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if theres enough room stick 2 nuts on there, i seem to remember they like coming undone

Good idea that.

Also use brass nuts on stainless studs to cure the rusting problem, making the second nut a long nut so there is no exposed stud will also help with stopping rusting. I used to find the biggest problem was not keeping the flange tight but getting the nuts back off without breaking the studs, many a time the oxy was brought into play, we still quite often ended up removing the manifolds to extract broken studs. Brass nuts did help but the stud still rusted and ripped the thread out of the nuts. I hope this makes sense.: :rolleyes:

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