PS_Bond Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Thought I'd replace the water pump on the engine I'm working on while everything was in pieces... I don't like the look of the way it has been seemingly glued in place with huge gobbets of sealant. As I understand is not uncommon, 2 of the heads on the long bolts have rounded. Given the state of the one that has come out, there's a good chance it is a combination of rust and sealant preventing them from moving. There's currently a load of Plusgas soaking into the area, but what's my best option for getting these things out? Heat won't do for this area; I could cut a slot in the bolt head and use an impact screwdriver, or go and get some bolt extractors from Screwfix, or...? I've seen from other threads that I ought to replace the P gasket at the same time - annoying, given I've just put another order into LR Series, but never mind! Could someone tell me what the part number is for the core plug beside it, please? And what sealant should be (sparsely!) used along with the gasket? I've been using Hylomar on virtually everything else... Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 The easy outs are a waist of time if you ask me, never ever got them to work. Slot might work but you chance knocking of the head or parting it in two. A good sharp knock on the bolt head sometimes works as the shock often releases any corrosion on the bolt threads. Mole Grips if you can get them in or you do get sockets that will grip on a rounded head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 Pete As you're changing the pump. Why not cut the bolt heads off by any method. Then using a stud extracter, Vise/ Mole grips on the bolt shank to remove the bolt. I only use grease on gaskets. That way they're easy to remove. When I fit bolts to a water pump. I use thread sealant on the threads and copper grease on the bolt shank HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Good point, I wasn't thinking destructively enough. I've got replacement bolts anyway. By grease, anything going? A bog standard lithium? Frax, I was thinking of the chewed bolt head removers that supposedly bite into the outside edge, rather than the sort you have to drill a hole to stuff them in (where I've had about 50/50 success). Never tried the former so I don't know if they're worth a go. I'll give it a wallop anyway, see if that frees it a bit. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frax Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 I am always amazed that the results you sometimes get with a got wollop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 Yes really any grease for the gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted October 29, 2011 Author Share Posted October 29, 2011 Well, this quick job is turning out to be fun... Cut the heads off 2 long bolts, removed the water pump. Managed to shift one of the truncated bolts, the other wouldn't budge. Unbolted the alternator, PAS pump and the remaining casting bolts, so the thing *should* just slide off the bolt shaft, but it's stuck. Other than drilling out the bolt - and the bits I've tried already barely touch it, so I'll use my cobalt bits tomorrow - I'm a little short of ideas. Looking behind the thing, it does look like the P gasket was gone anyway, so at least this isn't completely in vain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted October 30, 2011 Author Share Posted October 30, 2011 Got the swine! A combination of a bunch of wooden wedges, a brake caliper spreader, a claw hammer (to get some leverage) and a lot of visits from Mr Rubber Mallet and it finally came free. The housing was completely gunged up with rust & sealant, so I've run a drillbit through to clear the holes; drawfiled and flatted the housing mating faces (would have used a surface plate if mine was nearby) and reassembled. The P gasket was completely knackered - the old rubbery type, not the metal ones and I replaced the core plug on the front since I was there; not sure that it needed doing, but I had it handy so why not. The cobalt bits & carbide cutters worked to an extent, but the housing was stuck most at the block rather than toward the pump, so less useful than hoped. Medium threadlock and a lot of copper grease is on the new bolts - I don't want to go through that again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 30, 2011 Share Posted October 30, 2011 get a 6 sided socket, imperial one that nearly fits but is a little too small, hammer it on to the head, itll never slip then and bolt will come out i always use 6 sided sockets on the timing chest as there usually a bit siezed and there soft headed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted October 30, 2011 Author Share Posted October 30, 2011 I think given how badly stuck the bolt shank was I'd have probably ripped the head off the bolt! But yes, you can't round bolts with a proper hex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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