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discomikey

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discomikey last won the day on June 15 2019

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About discomikey

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    probably the quietest series in the world..... Honest....

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    magicaltrevor_theoneandonly@hotmail.com
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    http://mwb93@facebook.com

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    derbyshire, shropshire,and west mids...

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  • Interests
    off roading, mechanics, engineering

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  1. Makita, milwaukee, DeWalt, MAC, Snap-On. They are all absolutely brilliant these days. Its more down to personal preference than anything else. I have Makita, both the large bodied 1600?Nm and the smaller bodied ~250Nm one and they are awesome. 90% of the time I pick up the smaller one of the two as the larger is much less wieldy. I wouldn't turn my nose up at any of them though. Higher the voltage and amp hour the better.
  2. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264001894926 Use this type. They are much much better than the pressed steel type. The leave a clean edge and don't wander on entry. These ones are cheap as chips and are still brilliant but not very deep. I would expect a brand name version to be deeper to allow cutting through a 15mm plate
  3. My other half isn't in the slightest bit interested in learning. You're a lucky man.
  4. For sure. I had to do something for a customer last week. Puddle weld aluminium slot and tabs in 1.5mm 5056. Try and ease in and the slot lifts away from the tabs from the heat. You have to just get in and make sure you're ready with the filler!
  5. As Ross states, sharpening to a point is the thing to do but sharpen so the grinding marks run down the length of the taper as opposed to round the taper. It makes a massive difference. I think weldingtipsandtricks did a video on the correct methods. Youre definitely on the right track. Comfortable propping can overcome a lot of issues. Get creative with things around you to prop and make a dry run before you hit the pedal. Propping is NOT cheating! And welding gaps is tricky. Gaps on outside corner joints, and butt welds are particularly sensitive to heat. If you feel it's all getting out of hand, sometimes it's a good idea to back off the footpedal until you're barely lit up, readjust your filler hand and get back into it. One of the big advantages of TIG is stop/starts aren't an issue in terms of lack of fusion so use that to your advantage. Get comfortable, reset and continue. You'll get further and further as you go and your muscle memory catches up with you. TIG is hard. But so rewarding too. I hope this helps
  6. 2.4 tungsten should be absolutely fine How are you sharpening it? That's the biggest thing. For a 1mm outside corner joint you don't need much power at all. Probably somewhere in the region of 20-30a? (I use a footpedal so couldn't give an exact figure) As FF says, there is no golden rule. My travel speed and torch height will be different to yours and amps will need to be different to compensate. On an outside corner joint fit up is 200%key. You shouldn't need a filler rod at all in that situation (1mm steel). If you do you don't want to be adding much filler at all. Just zip along the joint. Pulse is preferable but without also works. You just need to use less Amps without pulse than with
  7. Here is a bracket which demonstrates the use of both processes. I designed this to incorporate "thickener" plates in the areas local to the bolt. I opted to use TIG for the thickener plates for 2 reasons: 1. due to the proximity to the edge of the main plate. Much better edge heat control means I didn't overheat the steel. 2. Because it's prettier and prettier means the racecar is faster The downside as mentioned above is it would have taken me half as long to physically weld, and the prep would have been much quicker if I had chosen MIG. The rest of the assembly was MIG welded in position on the vehicle. Time and access were a big factor here. Cleaning the steel before welding is still important for MIG though.
  8. There definitely is. There are also a few downsides so you couldn't blanket state that one process is better than the other. Let me dig through my photo album to see if I can find some good examples of when each was better
  9. Getting there, looking good. Hood time is the real thing here. Out of interest are you also practising at home?
  10. Looking good. Looking forward to see the TIG practise. I was once told the phrase "Mig is easy to learn, but hard to master, TIG is hard to learn, but easier to master." In my experience this is definitely the case. TIG just sort of clicks after a while. Feeding wire is important.. practise running wire through your hands when youre not welding so that it becomes second nature when you are.. Otherwise try and think about feeding rod through your hand when youre already concentrating 100% on the puddle, torch etc 🤣
  11. That's assuming Frontrunner haven't been given a very limited amount of CAD of the roof surfaces and fixing points to work with. If they have, there's no reason they couldn't have engineered a roof rack by now. Granted they aren't going to be handing CAD out to every man and his business but it's not unheard of.
  12. Looking very good. If you're doing an ultra4 build definitely post your progress on a build thread! I saw U4 has now made it to aus. I can't wait to see some of the builds to turn up, hopefully something a little different to the standard styles Cheers
  13. The tubular outrigger may have a fair amount of cross sectional area but the loads won't work in shear, more bending. It entirely depends on what you intend to use your cage for. If you want a bit of protection in case of an on road accident, then in the event of said accident, if the chassis outriggers were to deform a bit but don't break off or bend too much (disclaimer - it still needs thinking about) then they have done their job, you walk away and the car is scrap. If you are intending on competition use, then this probably isn't good enough. You'll also have to factor in the fatigue loads that will transfer through the cage into the outriggers from elsewhere, mainly seen in hard driving conditions. I think the idea has mileage though. Bolted joints are often good because you know an 8.8 bolt of X diameter is good for Y load in Z loading condition. Welding is harder to gauge. Thinking outside the box though! I like it
  14. "jeep" 😂 You can find yourself applying all 567BHP of a SVR engined bulldog on desert tracks! I wouldn't want to do that in a 90 though!
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