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discomikey last won the day on June 15 2019

discomikey had the most liked content!

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About discomikey

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    probably the quietest series in the world..... Honest....

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    derbyshire, shropshire,and west mids...

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    off roading, mechanics, engineering

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  1. Thanks for the recommendation Ross. First of all, Mods if this isn't allowed then feel free to take down. We could certainly take on the work but unfortunately at the moment we are booked up until around September for larger jobs. I'll drop you a PM with my contact details and we can discuss options if you wish. Cheers
  2. Looking Great Daan! Thank you for your custom and we were glad to help! This is a thread I'd somehow missed until now but I'll certainly be following the build!
  3. I would rcommend genuine for all of that unfortunately, I'd actually be surprised if you can buy these parts aftermarket to be honest. Cheers
  4. Hi, Yeah in the UK we call a compressor a supercharger, it's the same thing. If it has been ran with the belt off and you still have the same issue I would probably discount that. If it were me, I would replace all chains, it's the kind of job that I'd like to do once and know its all good. Pay attention to the condition of the tensioning system, I haven't had the timing case off an Aj126 but I am assuming it's tensioned by oil pressure so make sure the tensioning pistons are free and working properly
  5. Hi MarcinD. It's hard to tell what the noise is/where its coming from on a video, especially when my phone speaker is knackered. I have seen a couple of failing superchargers that make a metallic noise though, if it were me I'd place a stethoscope on various areas of the supercharger and timing case to see if you can pinpoint the location of the noise before ordering parts. 56k miles shouldn't be a problem for a timing chain, but the earlier 5.0L AJ133 engines did have some tensioner/chain issues. I've not seen this personally though the only issues I have seen
  6. I've been in a few vehicles with patrol Y61 axles behind an Lt230, Some have had drive train vibration on overrun badly, some haven't at all. That's more to do with unequal UJ angles (diff pinion vs t box angle) than lateral offset. That being said I'd aim for moving the diff closer to in line if possible, as its less kind on the UJ's etc We've flipped a few Y61 rear casings to give a RH drop instead of the very slightly LH drop as standard, and added trussing and full bolt on LR mounts. I'd highly recommend doing this. Get your measurements right and the original shafts fit
  7. Just scrolling through the forum and came across this. In jest I say, I think 2020 has decided for you! Here's to hoping we can all get some enjoyment out of our cars this summer!
  8. I couldn't say on that one to be honest. If you're going down the route of changing arms for handling I'd recommend considering D2 arms and watts linkage rear. I find the D2 geometry handles favourably.
  9. For what I do, the more "useless" information I can retain the better! Also if you use a lot you get to know the drill size off by heart. Ill send you some
  10. Hope this helps You've already dropped me a PM. If you just need a couple send me your address and I'll post them over. I thought of I replied here rather than on the PM it may help with others in the future who come across this thread
  11. What is the diameter of the holes now? It's worth noting that there are different types of rivnut, I believe we have at least 3 different types of M6 riv nuts at work, all with different outer diameters. I believe off the top of my head 7, 8 and 9mm od. we also have M8 riv nuts with a 10mm od if that's any help? If you need any sending over drop me a PM
  12. Sorry to hear about your bad run of luck! Glad to hear you're getting back at it. If you're after inverter MIG welders I can recommend: Kemppi in general (but with euro torch) R tech 250, Esab Rebel Thermal Arc My general rule of thumb is don't touch anything that doesn't come with a euro torch as standard. It looks like you have a decent budget from the link so you should get a lot of MIG for your money. If you wanted older proven transformer technology, I can't recommend Oxford enough. Cheers,
  13. yeah that's spot on. I'm struggling to picture what you mean.
  14. They are in fact, cleverly simple inside. each bypass tube consists of a needle/ball valve with a spring, the spring only acts as a one way valve. Its position/orientation on the body alters what effect it has and at what point on the travel of the damper. Inside, the piston /shim stacks are laid out conventionally. There really isn't much to go wrong. and they prove to be reliable in use. Internal bypass is another feature. it is effectively a bumpstop, consisting of another pair of shim stacks, (one acting as the bump stop and the other acting as a one way valve to replenish the vo
  15. That's the car. The dampers are built to spec ££££ bilstein and contain an internal bump stop system, which would replace the hydro bump as seen on U4 and some comp safari cars. Generally speaking, a normal damper or coilover does not have a specific ride height it is tuned for. Bypass dampers are a bit more complex and the position of the tubes determines a rising rate at a certain point in the travel. The reason they are used in Ultra4 is because they are much more tuneable to deal with some of the extreme terrains and the requirement of controlling the hefty weight
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