Boydie Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 I just noticed a tiny coolant weep on the gasket joint of my cooling pump and as these things have an bad habit of getting worse before too long I'm going to have to pull the pump face off and replace the gasket. My question without notice is this, does anyone have a record of the lengths of the bolts -- I believe there are 7 in total and of various lengths -- and the bolt pitch(s), which I believe is 8mm dia. x 1.25 pitch. The reason I ask is I know from when I re-assembled the engine that the hexangles on the bolts were getting rounded and I'd rather get new stainless ones before I pull it apart. Oh, and the very best seasons wishes to you all and may your new year be better than the last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 No 6 M8 x 120 x3 No 13 M8 x 65 x1 No 14 M8 x 130 x1 No 3 M8 x 30 x 5 No 12 M8 x 52 Personally wouldnt change to stainless just get new paisvated ones, bad reaction stainless/ ally/ steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 Thanks for that, I'll go and get them from a bolt supplier in the morning, 304 and 316 grade S/S bolts and studs etc. are pasivated but I'll take on board your comments, so I'll try to get them in Unbrako socket head or some such pasivated high tensile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 Thanks again "FOZSUG" I should have also mentioned in regard to S/S bolts that when I stripped the coolant pump down I replaced the pressed metal apology for an impellor with a cast one from a Chysler V8 water pump, it was drilled and machined to suit the Disco housing and heat shrunk and then doweled onto the pump shaft. At the same time I fitted S/S Helicoils to all the threads in the alloy castings. I wont have time to change the gasket before we leave on Xmas day so I could well have a challenge on the way -- well we should'nt always do repairs in the luxury of a well appointed garage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddyoz Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 Would be a good idea to changse the 'p' gasket[part no 11 in the diagram] while you have the pump off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 Done that and replaced the welsh plug as well at the overhaul, the gasket on the pump was an aftermarket one I could have used for a rolley, it was that thin, I considered making my own out of .8mm gasket cloth and I'm now regretting not doing it, oddly enough the seak (seak = seeping small leak) seems to have self sealed but the gods of Land Rovers and St. Murphey will wait until well in the Flinders Ranges on a mountain track that would give a Moroccan goat a serious case of vertigo and the nose bleeds and then and only then will it give up and leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Range Rover Blues Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 Not one of LRs better designs, the P gasket is held sealed by 3 of the water pump bolts, so really needs doing with every water pump swap. The last one I did had been copper-greased when it was fitted before, the bolts came straight out so I'd suggest either threadlock/sealer or copper grease for the long bolts every time. Also check the housing is flat, especially if the P gasket has leaked in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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