joe sharpe Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 i have a thud when changing gear and in sure its the rear diff ??? can i shim or take up slack some how or is it a new diff ?? any help or advice will make my life better cheers joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 You can take up the backlash by adjusting the two differential bearing "nuts". Roughly this is the method. Jack up the rear, Remove the road wheels, and half shafts, disconnect the rear drive shaft , drain the differential oil and remove the differential. Most differentials are installed with silicon sealant on the flange joint so a gentle tap with a soft hammer face may be required. Next (on your work bench) check that there isnt excessive backlash on the pinion gear to the crown wheel, if there is this needs to be re-shimmed first and this is complicated, if the play is acceptable, say 0-2 degrees play then say three hail Mary's and loosen the four bolts retaining the two bearing caps, next with a pin punch remove the two dowel/split pins locating the two bearing "nuts". Tighten the right hand nut until the play has been just removed and re-fit the locking pin (the right hand nut is the one CLOSEST to the crown wheel) now tighten the left hand nut until a backlash of 0.10 to 0.17 has been achieved, this is measured with a feeler guage measuring the gap between the machined face on the inner face of the differential body and the contacting inside face on the left hand spur gear. Refit the locking pin, this may require a slight alignment of the bearing nut,-- take car not to over tighten it and overly reduce the backlash you have just achieved -- re-tighten the bearing caps, reinstall the differential etc. I made a tool to fit and tighten the two bearing "nuts" with a piece of 3/4" flat bar a foot long and drilled it and tapped it at one end it to take two HT 3/16" studs 2" long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 How sure are you it's the rear diff? Have you removed the rear prop and driven it on the front axle to prove the noise has gone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jad Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 A frame ball joint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 As above, If you haven't already done so remove the rear prop & manipulate the joints and the slider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe sharpe Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 will try removing prop first cheers for help joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I only ask as a friends 110 has the same, but we know his rear diff is A OK and its not long had new bushes and a frame. we think its something in the transfer box on that, maybe a thrust washer gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 From what I've been told brand new Land Rovers have a distinctive "thud" from the centre differntial ............ very odd as I'm sure the centre diff can be adjusted correctly but it speaks of the raw engineering of some of the components, still I recall a similar discussion with a senior engineering manager from Diahatsu when I pointed out that the lash back in my brand new, still-in-the-box differential for my Charade GTi rally car had more than their works manual specified maximum and no shims were made to reduce it, to this he replied that Diahatsu had manufactured thouands of Charades world wide and less than .001% had ever reported a warranty claim for a defective differential therefore why would they spend considerable money rectifiying a problem that didnt exist. I guess that Land Rover would say the same, --- few if any or no warranty claims = no problem therefore why spend proffits fixing it if it doesnt need fixing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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