Jump to content

Range Rover overheating


puttputt

Recommended Posts

Hi Chaps,

Have put a straight edge and used a 0.05mm feeler leaf to measure both the engine block and cylinder heads both crossways and diagonally.

It has not been possible to insert the feeler gauge anywhere on either the heads or block.

The gaskets look OK with no blows and the water and oil were not mixed.

There were two low compression readings, the first being cylinder 4 and number 7.

The only thing to compare it with is the sump gasket has split in the joining bridges at the front and back of the engine block.

As the low compression is at the rear bulkhead cylinder (7) could it be that the compositie head gasket has aged similarly to the sump gasket and is blowing bue to the close proximity of other passages (but it does look OK)?

The camshaft measures a range of 34.09 - 34.20 accross the lobes and the lifters only look slightly domed in the middle leaving a small ring around the outside (approx a third of the total surface area).

The car was not run for more than the length of time needed to pull over safely after the dash warning light came on (10 seconds approx) and when home, did not overheat when filled with additional coolant.

Some of the hoses have been changed, perhaps needlessly, as there was pink/red coolant around the ends of them indicating coolant was escaping or if the thermostat was failing they were being pressurised forced to let coolant out.

Would the thing be to replace the thermostat and install new headgaskets (also have a new camshaft and lifters).

Any help would be more than gratefully recieved.

Many Thanks for your time,

Puttputt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the low compression was not due to the head gasket then surely it must be either the rings or the valves? If the sump gasket has blown through maybe its the rings? Did you ever run it with the oil filler off and notice a lot of air coming out the filler, this can be a sign? Or the vent is blocked?

Doesn't explain the overheating but would be worth checking the above.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

New headgaskets per bank and compression has been resotred. However number 4 is still under the other.

The car now fails to idle properly when cold, Is this due to compression testing after rebuild (wet and dry readings- twice)

or does it sound like idle control valve - that was fine before?

Many Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy