DrRob Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Boot floor replacement mission plan: Having reviewed loads of forum articels on here and LROi the plan is to seal the new replacement floor supports (http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4ab0b3816d) in with PU sealant (sticks like sh*t to a blanket (http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=75082) and a few choice located bolts or rivets along their length. Should be as strong as weld and floor is non-structural (allegedly) as RR has separate chassis........ An old Classic Ali floor will then be sealed in place with butyl mastic and rivetted - I can them remove in future with ease. Will also use butyl mastic to seal in the original front and rear rubber sealing strips for the Ali floor. Seat belt anchors a little challenge as the steel floor has flat areas for their location - Ali doesn't... Comments gratefully received Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Seat belt anchors go on one of the lower ridges of the corugated ali floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 Need to double check the twin buckle mounts that my '93 has will fit in the Ali floor recess width........not so sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 They dont fit in the recess but on the flat of the corugation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Top Bottom Bottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 Thanks for the pointers.....mine has these buckles on top of the floor http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/8568/MXC7264-REAR-SEAT-BELT-ANCHOR-PLATE-ASSY.html?search=seat belt&page=1 . I'm sure the location on upper side is in a ridge so the buckle may not fit in the recess...? Perhaps the alloy floor had these originally...? http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/16237/MRC4655-REAR-SEAT-BELT-ANCHOR-BRACKET-CENTRE.html?search=seat belt&page=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Thanks for the pointers.....mine has these buckles on top of the floor http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/8568/MXC7264-REAR-SEAT-BELT-ANCHOR-PLATE-ASSY.html?search=seat belt&page=1 . I'm sure the location on upper side is in a ridge so the buckle may not fit in the recess...? Perhaps the alloy floor had these originally...? http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/16237/MRC4655-REAR-SEAT-BELT-ANCHOR-BRACKET-CENTRE.html?search=seat belt&page=1 I think you are right. I ve got 4 of the MRC4655 you can have if you want as i am not fiiting the ally floor back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 Tony Excellent! I'll have those off you please, cheers. Will drop by soon Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 Tony Excellent! I'll have those off you please, cheers. Will drop by soon Rob Youre welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boro Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 You should only need one MRC4655 i noticed them in my parts book earlier shown for the aluminium floor, thats of course assuming you have the clip in seat belts to go with them... clever idea really having seat belts that can quickly be removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 I had 2 each side, as each seat belt clips on to one and the lap belt on to the other two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highway_Star Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 I hate to burst your bubble, with my 'voice of experience' hat on.... But you're not expecting the original boot floor support lips to be OK are you? Or if I'm reading your OP correctly, are you seriously suggesting that you intend to attach the 'z' sections to the original floor with Tigerseal or similar? It most certainly will not be as strong as a weld! I reckon that would come under the catch all of 'inadequate repair'. Wheel arches with seat belts bolted to them are well within 30cm of there. Once you've got the wreckage of the original floor out, you'll want to take a close look at the fuel tank, fuel tank mounts, fuel pipes, brake pipes, chassis legs, rear seat-belt mounts and their crossmember and probably a frame crossmember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 I hate to burst your bubble, with my 'voice of experience' hat on.... But you're not expecting the original boot floor support lips to be OK are you? Or if I'm reading your OP correctly, are you seriously suggesting that you intend to attach the 'z' sections to the original floor with Tigerseal or similar? It most certainly will not be as strong as a weld! I reckon that would come under the catch all of 'inadequate repair'. Wheel arches with seat belts bolted to them are well within 30cm of there. Once you've got the wreckage of the original floor out, you'll want to take a close look at the fuel tank, fuel tank mounts, fuel pipes, brake pipes, chassis legs, rear seat-belt mounts and their crossmember and probably a frame crossmember. Nope, new floor supports as per the e-bay link in my OP. I'll look again at welding them in vs Tigerseal w.r.t. the 30cm issue..... Floor is already out - tank, mounts, x-member etc all A1 It had a new x-member fitted by previous owner Mounts all in hand - see above posts ^^^^^^^ I'll do a full report once job is done for benefit of others Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highway_Star Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 I've done the job a couple of times, it's easy enough as access is good. Just tedious. It's worth removing the heel board panel from the rear seat floor, it'll give you access to the complete A frame crossmember for cleaning and painting purposes, it's only spot welded. Honestly, I urge you to weld thos z sections, I know Tigerseal etc is nigh on impossible to undo, but it's not weld! Those lips support the boot floor, which supports whatever is in the boot, the boot floor crossmembers attach to them too. The may not be structural in terms of road holding, but structural in terms of load carrying they most certainly are. The weld is a slightly tricky one, best way to do it is to butt weld the new z sections once you've accurately measured and cut away all the corrosion. Trouble is it's easy to distort the sides and top of the heel board panel. However with good technique it's OK. Don't be tempted to simply overlap the new with the old, it'll only corrode again within a couple of years. These wee clamps are a gift from the powers! http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-welding-tools/intergrip-welding-clamps.html I used 'tek' screws to secure the floor panel down last time I did this job. A lot less hassle than rivets. http://www.tekscrew.co.uk/page/tek_screws I replaced brake lines, brake flexis and fuel lines as access was good. Also worth having a good look at the A frame ball joint. One other thing, the Ali floor panel doesn't have the access hatch for the EFi fuel pump. Naturally 2 weeks after I'd finished the job, the fuel pump packed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 I used 'tek' screws to secure the floor panel down last time I did this job. A lot less hassle than rivets. http://www.tekscrew....page/tek_screws Which ones? "Stitching tekscrew fixing with rubber washer", second one down on that link looks the boy....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highway_Star Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 The ones I used were no more than 1" long, probably more like 3/4". No rubber washer, but I don't see a rubber washer being a bad thing. Just make sure you get the wee adaptor tool for your drill. Makes putting them in a doddle. Then you'll find all manner of uses for them, around the LR, workplace and home Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Personally i wouldn't entertain trying to weld in new Z sections. I sourced a mild steel steel cut accurately to size with the fuel pump hole cut and welded some U channel sections underneath to give rigidity. It straddles the across the Z sections by around half inch per side to touch the inner wheel arches and is secured with a number of M6 stainless screws each side and some underseal between the floor section and original side support floor. No welding to fit and can be removed if required. Absolutely no problem with MOTs, noise levels or rigidity to take heavy loads. See: Fast forward to 4mins 30 seconds for details on the floor http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zF4ow4ebYI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 Cheers Steve. Your other posts were useful pointers............and the video! Think I've got a plan now. Will do a video collage at end for benefit of others. Offering up the Ali floor this weekend with the newly ordered Z supports but have some little chassis welds first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highway_Star Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 Steve, that's an innovative approach to the boot floor issue! I wish I'd thought of that. Did you cut the wreckage of the original lips off? Bit of a grot trap otherwise I'd have thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnacsteel Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Hi Steve Great video and about to do something similar on a '93 200 TDi Classic - similar to DrRob Also good comment from High-way star about the original lips - have "cut" most of mine off as hardly anything left in the first place. Any additional comments/observations are some months use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted October 4, 2012 Author Share Posted October 4, 2012 Also good comment from High-way star about the original lips - have "cut" most of mine off as hardly anything left in the first place. John I used replacement lips that I got from AL-Services along the sides and behind the front seats. Worked a treat. Have lots of photos - must make a youtube video collage! Give me a shout if you need any "pointers". Mine's worked a treat. The outlet pipes are close to the floor but I put an extra "x-member" in there to provide some local support.....if you are a local to Hampshire them welcome to come and see the finished product..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveb19 Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Personally i wouldn't entertain trying to weld in new Z sections. I sourced a mild steel steel cut accurately to size with the fuel pump hole cut and welded some U channel sections underneath to give rigidity. It straddles the across the Z sections by around half inch per side to touch the inner wheel arches and is secured with a number of M6 stainless screws each side and some underseal between the floor section and original side support floor. No welding to fit and can be removed if required. Absolutely no problem with MOTs, noise levels or rigidity to take heavy loads. See: Fast forward to 4mins 30 seconds for details on the floor http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zF4ow4ebYI Hi Im doing my old 89 RR rear floor etc. Can't open your video-says unavailable. Any chance of a link please? Regards Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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