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Brakes adjusters


jason110

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Vehicle - 1966 2a, standard 10 inch drums all round

I want to change to brake adjusters, Ive never done it before. I just want to know how easy is it? Do I need to remove the hub? Or can I just remove the shoes, springs and of course the drum!

Thanks!

Jase

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Vehicle - 1966 2a, standard 10 inch drums all round

I want to change to brake adjusters, Ive never done it before. I just want to know how easy is it? Do I need to remove the hub? Or can I just remove the shoes, springs and of course the drum!

Thanks!

Jase

I did my series three, just like you say, no need to remove any hubs or backplates. The adjusters that I got (Britpart before I knew any better) were not absolutely right and didn't allow the shoes to 'lie down' nicely on the back plate and needed a little tweak with an angle grinder - it was so long ago that I've forgotten the exact problem!

So yes, it's easy, try to avoid Britpart adjusters. I think you need a grinder to remove the old adjusters as they are not designed to come apart once assembled, but again my memory could be playing tricks :-)

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I don't think there's any choice but to buy britpart adjusters, and they're **** to put it mildly. Whoever thought it would be a great idea to replace Land Rovers square drive to the cam with a teeny weeny splined shaft wants shafting with the rough end of a pineapple. they don't last me long enough to do the first adjusting, never mind readjusting at a later date.

If you find an alternative source, please please share it with us, but the last time I bought 'OEM', thats what I got, and searches revealed nothing else.

What I do is: assemble the adusters to the backplate as per the instruction - which are also pants by the way. Once done, sacrifice and chicken and pray! the next step is to grind away half the head of the bolt that holds the cam on, all the way until you can see half the shank just evident as a line starting to appear where you're grinding - hope it doesn't pop while you're doing it. Now hit it hard with the welder, and get that shank welded to the cam! Now grind away the rest of the bolt head and do the same.

Just welding the head of the bolt to the cam does not work, been there and got the t shirt. all that happens is that when - not if - the splines fail, the cam and the bolt both come out together. Its my intention when I've got my CNC lathe and mill up and running, to produce accurate replacements of the land rover originals.

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Of course the original adjusters were the right size for riveted shoes. With modern bonded shoes they rotate when there's still plenty of lining there. I suppose this is a safety feature and linings aren't that expensive.

Yes, it's a safety feature, it makes you take the drum off so that you can find the modern fangled super clever bonded linings seperated entirely from the shoes and floating around at will!

Julian.

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