Scooby Jim Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 Right here goes, am rebuilding my 1972 Land Rover project See here.http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78059&hl= Anyhoo I was putting my trolley jack back into my garage and as I trundled it past the Land Rover I had a thought. I know there was an issue with lack of drive, and was told by the previous owner it was a diff issue. Well the rear half shafts are ok, so to come back to the trolley jack, I hadn't checked the front. So jacked up the front axle and put the locking hubs to lock, and rotated the passenger wheel, the drivers wheel did not move (was expecting it to rotate the opposite direction), so went around to the drivers side and again no reaction from the opposite wheel. So put the gearbox into gear and in low ratio ( I think) and tried turning one of the wheels, hoping that with the prop locked would make the locking hub lock if it wasn't engaged, and then again it did nothing. I have also put the transfer lever into neutral, and turned the prop by hand and there is no change with the front wheels. BUT There is a slightly strange noise when turning the prop, but I rotated the prop through the footwell so couldn`t tell where the sound was coming from. I have had quite a bit of experience with free wheeling hubs made by ASIN, and usually when they were gunked up turning the wheel with the prop locked and the locker locked would be enough to pop it into life. But having not taken these SELECTRO hubs apart I'm unsure if they work with a spring or with just the rotation of the dial. So would you guys say that the differential is gone, or the hubs are locked open?? Is there an "easy" way of checking the diff?? I'll have a look properly when I finally get the engine running as that should shake a lot of things into working or not lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Just ditch the freewheeling gimmicks and put standard flanges on. They just work! When you remove the FWHs to check which spline shafts you have (10 or 24) then you will be able to see if you are getting drive through from the other side or the diff is indeed bust or shaft even. A second hand diff isn't too much money and not to bad a job if you have a garage to work in, at least as long as it's wide enough to pull the shafts that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 Just ditch the freewheeling gimmicks and put standard flanges on. They just work! When you remove the FWHs to check which spline shafts you have (10 or 24) then you will be able to see if you are getting drive through from the other side or the diff is indeed bust or shaft even. A second hand diff isn't too much money and not to bad a job if you have a garage to work in, at least as long as it's wide enough to pull the shafts that is. Cheers bud, I tended to leave the hubs in lock on my old Sportrak, as I was too lazy to get out and change them as sods law was that they needed changing in the muddy stuff. But I did unlock them for a long journeys so that I saved a tiny bit of fuel. I'm going to assume that the fronts are the same as the rear in that they are 10 spline. This was the gist I had from the previous owner about the drive issue. "I was off road and stuck in the mud (beached) and couldn't get out, put it in 4x4 and tried to use the engine power, there was a clunk and the engine revs and the prop spins (think he said that about the prop) but the wheels do nothing. I'm pretty sure it's a diff issue, but not had anything apart to find out." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 And as for a diff change done a couple of those on my Impreza. And fit to these from Diff B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 Right free wheeling hubs removed, and the problem remains. Once the hubs were off I put an allen key through the split pin hole passenger side, and turned by one finger the other side did nothing and the prop remained stationary. Same for the drivers side but the drivers side had a more "whirry" sound when turning, so I'm going to have to remove the prop and then there front diff and hopefully that will provide some broken bits, otherwise I'm looking at two snapped half shafts. On that note how do you remove the front half shafts?? Is it just a case of removing the hub nuts and retracting the shafts?? Or is there another more complicated way?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 No easy way, you will have to remove the hub, brake back plate, stub axle, only then will the shaft be free. You only have 1 snapped shaft, the wirry sound are the spiders working so the shaft is engaged. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted November 12, 2012 Author Share Posted November 12, 2012 No easy way, you will have to remove the hub, brake back plate, stub axle, only then will the shaft be free. You only have 1 snapped shaft, the wirry sound are the spiders working so the shaft is engaged. G Well looks like axle off and on my workbench then. As I can work in the dry and slightly warm. As it's coming apart, new shafts, seals, and bearings etc. May as well source a diff too just incase, worth keeping if not needed. Where is the best place to get a set of shafts, as I'll avoid britpart etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 Where is the cheapest to get a set of decent front shafts?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 14, 2012 Share Posted November 14, 2012 Second hand originals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted November 14, 2012 Author Share Posted November 14, 2012 Second hand originals. Right I have found a set for £20 each or £65 for the complete axle. Would it be better to just swap the axle or to strip it down and swap over?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Buy a full spare axle but strip yours then you'll understand it better and know that it's in good order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby Jim Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Buy a full spare axle but strip yours then you'll understand it better and know that it's in good order. That makes a LOT more sense, also if I'm missing anything I'll have a spare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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