kiwi_110 Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Well since I'm older and tired of reaching for the window winder, I thought I'd have a crack at installing some electric windows in the 110. Being a truck cab, only two to do so should be a piece of the proverbial. I scanned microcat for the Defender electric window regulators and found these two parts, CUH000082 and CUH000092 for left and right front door electric regulators. More scanning revealed that they would typically only fit the later models, post-1990 at least, but I thought I'd have a go any way, as one does. I also ordered the proper little flexible grommets that go between the door and the pillar but would do my own harness and DPDT switches. I planned to mount the switches on either side of the top panel of my Raptor Console so I got Phil Proctor to make me a new top panel with carling cut-outs either side of 4 x 52mm gauge holes. When the red-cross package turned up from LRDirect, I pulled my door cards and handle gubbins off and pulled out the manual regulators. Straight away, i could see the geometry of the lecky models uses a shorter arc and shorter scissors. Unperturbed, I cut the arms off both sets of regulators near the pivot point, and MIG'd my longer manual arms and their attached scissors back on to the lecky regs. So now the geometry would be correct for my windows and I just had to sort out the mounts because the stud pattern for the inner door panel is a bit different. Two of the four holes line up and put the pivot right where it had to be and the other holes needed drilling in the panel. I also had to cut away a bit of panel for lecky motor clearance. After some faffing about, bending the arms a bit and tweaking the panel here and there, I got them working. I hard soldered wires to the motor connections and pumped RTV around them for water proofing. Drilled holes in the door card near the check-strap thing, and the coresponding plastic cover on the pillar (covers the other end of the check strap thing) and secured the grommet there with the wires passing through it and up through the binnacle and into the Raptor Console. A couple of new fuses and wiring from the fusable link bus up to two new DPDT carling tpe switches and Bob is my Uncle! They run down in about 3 seconds and up in 4. No worse than the Disco so I'm quite chuffed. I know a thread is often useless without pix, but i just got stuck in and did the job without stopping to admire the scenery. Sorry. Moral of the story: IT CAN BE DONE and using LR Parts, not them after market kits.... Cheers, Ray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie64 Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 hi out of intrerest how mcuh did the parts cost you and where did you get them from? also did you take any photos whilst doing it? thanks tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi_110 Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share Posted July 2, 2013 hi out of intrerest how mcuh did the parts cost you and where did you get them from? also did you take any photos whilst doing it? thanks tom Hi Tom, I got them from www.lrdirect.com they were Allmakes brand and £62.99 each. Island4x4 had one side at £33 but did not have the other. I didn't take pix. I can take a couple of pix of the bits I cut off and a spare manual regulator to show the geometry difference and post them up later today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Did you not have to replace the steel door inner pieces? The bit the winder bolts too. I'm thinking of having a go with mine but I have the early lift up handle doors, still sure it could be done though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinny Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 I had the later electric windows fitted to the early lift up handle doors. I used the later inner panel and regulator. I had to remove one of the older mounts and I added the door strap bracket from the later doors too, I used rivnuts to mount the inner panel to the door frame although some of the existing holes line up and can be reused Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi_110 Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share Posted July 2, 2013 Mine is lift up handles. On the inner panel, the upper and lower rearmost holes on the lecky regulator mount line up with the ones on the panel. The front two are wider apart and I just drilled new ones in the panel to match. The panel has to be flattened a bit and the front lower corner needed cutting out to clear the motor. If you can source later model inner panels as Vinny did, you'd be sweet. Vinny, did you use the regs unmodified or did you weld on your original arms? Possibly the later inner panels place the regulator closer to the centre of the panel so the arm can be shorter. I was pretty sure the rollers on the lecky arms did not fit the channel thing in the bottom of the glass so thats another reason I swapped the arms over. Ray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinny Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Actually I forgot I had to cut out the hole for the larger door handles in the later panel! I used the later regulators and electric motors. They use 2 plastic clips which clamp on to the glass. You can buy them on there own so you can reuse the glass If you remove the old type steel rail from the base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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