Spongie Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 do you actually need to remove the input gear and bearing carrier to remove t-case on lt230, as I was told when fitting my 1.003 : 1 I would need to leave it fitted, so wondered if the removal could be done similar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 No, 6 bolts and the linkages and the whole thing 'just' slides off. The input gear is carried in it's own pre-loaded bearings and is not retained to the shaft. That's what makes it much better than a Series transfer box, which has to be partially dismantled to seperate, and has the main shaft nut at the back that works loose and causes all kinds of mayhem! You may find corrosion of the main shaft makes it difficult to remove, depends on what type of input gear you've got, cross-drilled hopefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spongie Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 Thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 No, 6 bolts and the linkages and the whole thing 'just' slides off. Yeah! If only it were that simple - I finally succeeded in removing one yesterday and the bolt in between the linkages, main-box and front output housing conveniently decided to round itself off (the last one to remove as well)... That was fun trying to remove that. Spongie - I can't remember whether it's included in the 6 bolts but you'll also need to unbolt the driver's side mount that goes into the cross-member. You have two options for that you can either remove the four bolts holding the bracket onto the output housing or you can remove the one nut that holds the bolt onto the cross member bracket. If you do the latter you'll need to jack up the case in order for the remaining thread / bolt to clear the whole. My suggestion would be remove the single bolt as it's simpler. You'll need to break the seal made by the gasket (sometimes no mean feat) and because the chassis bracket is oblong you can get a crowbar between the transfer box and the cross member and use that as leverage to break the seal. That way when it does go it won't go too far and fall out. (Just realised you may have dropped that cross-member already - the removal I did was as I've been breaking the Disco so judicious use of the grinder has been applied to the floor panels in this Disco)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 Thats not included in the 6 bolts no. Its 4 across the top and round the passenger side, and then the 2 between the main box and the front output housing. Did mine yesterday ready for fitting into The 109, I couldn't get the rubber mount off the chassis bracket on mine, well stuck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spongie Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share Posted September 8, 2013 Returning old thread from the gutter. Just to say thanks. I did the job, was a doddle, got my 1.22:1 off and New 1.003:1 fitted Awesome thanks folks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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