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Ed Poore

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Everything posted by Ed Poore

  1. You might prefer the South East then as the bandsaw came from Essex and the drills from Surrey. But I might have a bigger mill, lathe and a shaper as a distinct possibility on the horizon once the workshop is sorted.
  2. If you hang around you do pick up the odd bargains. Managed to score this (fully functioning) bandsaw for £100, note the Defender door for scale... And this set of three (couldn't lift the 2G onto the table ) Elliott Progress drills and bench for £150. The floor standing pillar drill I sold onto a member here. They're certainly solid old beasts and feel much much more solid and precise than the more modern stuff my father has in his workshop.
  3. Interesting, I've had some cheap £3 meters and didn't feel they were particularly good. Laggy was one thing. My goto is a Fluke 179 mainly because of the probes I must admit but it just feels nicer and I trust it, didn't with the cheaper meters. But then I am using it mainly on surface mount electronics rather than vehicle electrics.
  4. If it helps I've got a spare 300Tdi on the floor in the blacksmith barn (albeit with a snapped crank) but could take some piccies because I know that was timed up correctly. But it is a manual.
  5. Fundamentally everything is with respect to TDC on No 1 (compression stroke I think) so that's what you need to find. If the pumps etc are not in line at that point then somethings out of whack. Gates - not quite, just ordered some steel for the H frame to form the gate posts. Been chasing my tail on other stuff at the moment.
  6. Yes. If you think about it on a 4 stroke engine the pump only injects fuel on every other stroke of the piston as one is the compression stroke (inject fuel) and one is the exhaust stroke. Also the pump pulley is twice the diameter of the crank so you have to have some gearing there. PS I meant another turn off the crank pulley not the pump.
  7. Turn it over another revolution is it correct then?
  8. Was wondering if you could make the rails quick release with a horizontal lynch pin?
  9. @FridgeFreezer Jon you should make the rear bit demountable in that case then
  10. I think they have similar rules (if not more extreme) than Australia. Steph and Leigh (Grizzly 'N' Bear) posted a video about the prep they had to do when they were thinking of shipping their camper back to Australia before COVID put a halt to it. If I remember correctly the entire vehicle and camper had to be empty so they had to fit what they could into luggage to fly out with them. Whole thing had to be cleaned and inspected, timber can also be a bit of an issue.
  11. Rust is normally fine for a galvaniser as their acid dips take care of that (obviously something that's a complete rust bucket is a no go but light rusting is fine), it's paint and other dirt they can't abide. Cost wise I think the last thing I had galvanised was ~34p / kilo but that was through a local trailer fab company at cost. They send an artic of trailers at least once a week to be galvanised so I can drop off anything of any size on by Tuesday 9am and it'll be back on Thursday. It's a beautiful setup because I don't need to wait for small items to be grouped together it all just g
  12. Just bolt them in then I'm assuming that your seat belts are attached to the truck cab itself, in which case any fixing of the seats only really needs to take the weight of the seat because you're being held in by the seatbelt in the event of a crash. Fundamentally you're going to be limited by the seat box being made of aluminium more than anything else. On my L322 seats I simply relocated the captive plates that were there for the Defender seats into an appropriate location for the seats. The only thing you could do is make up some larger spreader plates to go inside the seat box (in
  13. @darthdickyyou've done this a lot recently.
  14. Always game, what are you actually trying to achieve apart from bolting some seats in?
  15. @MikeAK I suspect that the 16A @ 200-250V is the continuous rating whilst the 20A @ 250V is a maximum rating. Or if you're truly silly and need more there are 500A and 800A connectors available. Not all in one but have a search for PowerLock. I've had to deal with a 125A connector and the cable was so thick, heavy and stiff when my friend was trying to plug it in it got away from him and almost knocked him out as it flipped back and hit him.
  16. Likewise I keep telling myself I'm upgrading to a ~300hp V8 so I can overtake dangerously slow drivers when towing up in Scotland...
  17. Ooo interesting. Been thinking it would be really nice if I could open the back window in the 6x6, particularly on hotter days - they might be just the ticket. I like the benefit of the full width but then again being a pick-up / flat-bed I'll probably have stuff against the back anyway.
  18. Not tried https://www.lrworkshop.com/ then? I find that one very useful - particularly if you create an account and it does a price comparison for various sites. Suppose the JLR one does the P38
  19. Looking forward to doing that in the 6x6 if I get the 1UZ shoehorned in there - few more ponies than a 3.9 and potential for a lot more if I completely lose my mind (well, got to find it first). So far it's cost £550 and I haven't sold off any parts of the Lexus yet, currently my hope is that apart from a few hoses and V8 radiator I won't have to buy anything else in - I've managed to accumulate a fairly large scrap pile of useful bits recently
  20. Send them down to @miketomcat and get a carbon fibre or fibreglass one made up
  21. Shame my godmother's husband recently passed away because he'd tell you instantly what alloy would be best and how to anneal it. Was a true encyclopedia on all things to do with metallurgy, but a self proclaimed dinosaur since there weren't many of them around.
  22. Slightly silly suggestion but would it benefit from having some heat applied to the forma via a blow-torch? I'd have thought the latent heat capacity of the forma would retain the heat quite nicely.
  23. Just a trademark / brand for what is basically pre-galvanised mild steel. Not sure if there's a difference between galvanising vs. zintec but it's basically the same thing.
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