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Ed Poore

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Everything posted by Ed Poore

  1. Teaches me to read things in a rush. Did think it was rather impressive!
  2. Doesn't build them anymore. My view has changed a bit since but when I made an enquiry a few years ago the response I got was rather curt and rude. I understand he had a few health issues at the time and consequently got screwed over with his business but he could have simply stated that rather than the response I got. He's still very active on mig-welding but not doing any Land Rover cross members any more because he got fed up of them.
  3. Sorry should have said - more interested in the paint work if as you say it's survived tipper abuse for 8 years.
  4. Any more details on the marine paint? If you get a chance some piccies of the tipper would be good, piccies are always nice!
  5. This barn is roughly 3x the size and 1.5x the height - it currently only has one floodlight above the 6x6 but illuminates the whole barn comfortably. The main reason I've gone for / planned a pair of temporary lights is to reduce shadows because if they're at either end then you get better coverage.
  6. Related but slightly off-topic if people want some mains operated ones I'd highly recommend the VTAC lights with Samsung LEDs in them. I've just finished wiring up a pair of them in my temporary workshop and took a before and after picture - before was a pair of fluorescent tubes suspended from the rafters: And then after was with one floodlight screwed into the rafters at either end of the old Victorian kitchen (yup, my temporary workshop used to be a kitchen, admittedly several hundred years ago): Those 100W / 6500K ones are currently £22.50 + VAT at CPC, the 50W versions are £9.95 + VAT. I've had some outside for about 9 months now and they've survived the winter comfortably. My parents have one installed on their tallest barn facing the prevailing weather and it's been up there for a couple of years and still going strong.
  7. If it's of any use I could get out Mr. Hot (plasma cutter) and/or Mr. Angry (9" grinder) and cut out the chassis sections. Wes wanted them anyway - I've got a Inventor installed on my PC in the office so could probably knock together a 3D model of the chassis end of the setup if people are interested? Probably shouldn't do it for a couple of weeks though because I've got to try and get the top floor flat ready for a vet who's coming to stay and always have work in the background.
  8. It's time to get very picture heavy... Driver side spring and damper mount looking back towards the bulkhead. Spring location hopefully obvious, the top of the damper bolts through the bracket at the rear (just visible between the hard brake lines). Same bracket but viewed from through the bulkhead towards the front of the vehicle. The damper sits inside the bracket with a bolt going through from the outer edge and into the threaded boss on the engine side of the mount. Probably not that useful but looking from the wheel towards the spring mount (apologies for the finger in the corner ). The damper would sit down to the left (rear) of the spring mount from this view point. Sideways view of the passenger side mount looking towards the engine bay (bulkhead is to the right): And the axle bracketry (or rust in this case), sorry for the pile of carp on top but I couldn't be bothered to go and change my boots and find a pair of gloves to un-pile the carp. You can see the bottom of the damper (the damper has actually been cut off above the bushes). The hole that the boss on the bottom of the air bag goes through is just visible behind the bushes. The hole to the right is actually an access / attachment hole I seem to remember for pulling / holding the clip that goes through the air bag in place. The two brackets poking upwards are for the front radius arms and the bump stop is to the right hand side.
  9. Just found some photos of the cross member before it was welded on: Two minor mess ups that were made - I specified 30mm diameter for the jack points - forgot to clarify, ID not OD. And I should have extended the two edges out to the wings another inch to support the wing if required. Having said that the cross member is so strong that I've contemplated but not got around to cutting out the jack points and welding up the hole.
  10. £1200?!?!?!?! I had a custom rear cross member built by a local trailer fabrication company, cut old one off and welded the new one in with change from £500. I didn't want a normal replacement rear cross member but went for a Nige / Black Sheep style C section out of 5mm steel with another 6mm plate between the chassis rails for the tow bar. I dropped the fuel tank out myself and trailered the 110 down to them with the shot cross member attached so they could take measurements off it. Half a day later they'd chopped off the old one and fabricated a new one for me to inspect before welding it back on the chassis. Picked up the 110 the following day. @davie get practicing with the welder as it sounds like you've already got one. Yes you can learn a bit from the welding course but nothing really makes up for practice. Get confident enough to plate it over and then save the pennies for a new chassis if that's where you want to go longer term.
  11. @WesBrooks I'll take some photos of the front chassis bracketry sometime today as it's nice and visible. Rear less so unless I can pick the rear up.
  12. Veering off topic here slightly but hopefully still relevant to the discussion. I said above that Arduino stuff can run on the blue pill stuff but someone recently recommended to me Grbl as a CNC controller - had a look at their Github page and the second paragraph states "written in highly optimized C utilizing every clever feature of the AVR-chips to achieve precise timing and asynchronous operation". Which just screams to me they've picked the wrong platform to begin with . So although it's designed to run on an Arduino because of the developers I doubt it's a straight forward operation to run it on an STM32. One of the huge benefits of the STM32 (although probably not in this scenario) is that it's an ARM core and well ARMs are ARMs and they're a heck of a lot of them out there. Provided you've written a decent hardware abstraction layer then if you've targetted one ARM then porting to a completely different hardware platform is fairly trivial. In my previous job we pretty much standardised on ARM or Intel processors and Xilinx FPGAs but it meant after (20+ years in the making) implementing a decent abstraction layer we could add new platform support in about an hour if it was based on an ARM processor and a higher-end Xilinx FPGA (the applications were too big for smaller ones so we're talking the £1.8k a pop chips here)...
  13. For what it's worth, for some real world experience I've got some Zu alloys on my 110 which I think sit out quite a bit (quite a high negative offset?) and when I adjusted the steering locks to compensate I was staggered by the improvement in the turning circle. Done about 80k on them and given them a fair bit of abuse off-road, might have a significant dent in one as the local tyre shop who I have absolutely no complaints about commented they really struggled to balance one (and couldn't quite). They fitted it on the rear where it would make less of a difference and let me know in case it caused an issue. So far not. I've compared it to 90s on standard wheels (LR ones not after market) and it will out turn them. Putting them onto a 90 should improve things massively. From memory it's now comparable to my L322 was turning circle wise. Regardless of whether it's better or not I can maneuver the 110 like a normal car now (after all it's not significantly longer than a Ford Focus). Naturally I had to do something about it so bought the 6x6
  14. @Turbocharger With regards to the push fitting it looks to me like a fairly standard 1/4BSP size: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Push-fit-brass-male-stud-connector-1-4-bsp-thread-to-6-8-10mm-or-1-8-to-8-6mm/. I've got a load of those lying around somewhere (think probably in the Defender) and somewhere in the blacksmiths barn there is a set of P38 air bags so I can try and see if they fit in to confirm for you?
  15. OK - it is to all intents and purposes an Arduino with a load more bits thrown in (I'd say for extra but actually it's cheaper?!). You can genuinely take an Arduino sketch and run it on an STM32 board. See here for a tutorial: https://circuitdigest.com/microcontroller-projects/getting-started-with-stm32-development-board-stm32f103c8-using-arduino-ide The "next" step up would be to upgrade to Mbed which is a much better framework for writing stuff and almost as simple as the Arduino wiring language except that it's not aimed at school kids but maybe secondary / 6th form / University students who've done a programming course. You can do everything online or you can do it offline as I do because I don't like relying on internet stuff. Then some of the chips are powerful enough to support a real time operating system like FreeRTOS or even Linux on them. So really I don't see a downside . It gives you options, basically with an Arduino you're always fundamentally using an ancient (in electronics terms) tiny little microcontroller, which have their uses but quite often you see on the Arduino forums people running out of space. I remember when I was doing my degree we ended up having to choose the biggest Arduino because basically there wasn't going to be enough space to fit the intended program. Now before people start ranting over optimising the code - you should always write the code for a human to read first and foremost and then start optimising if you must. Trust me having been involved in the development, rearchitecture and maintenance of a 10+ million lines of code software defined radio framework you really appreciate when you have well written code. There were also some wonderful comments and essays left by people as they came across genuine problems they had to work around. Slight off topic but an entertaining story - I designed the electronics and wrote the vast majority of the software for a development kit we sold. A (the) customer came in one day and they had been struggling with getting some register writes to work and eventually gave up and had a look at my example program. I'd left a little comment in there saying something along the lines of: I think it was later determined there was a bug in the silicon for that device. But the customer was extremely grateful that I'd left that comment in there in the example code.
  16. I may have one... I think. Do yourself a favour and throw the Arduino in the bin and get yourself an STM32 Nucleo board. Same form factors as the Arduino, cheaper than the proper ones and waaaaay more powerful! The two I've got sat on my bench at the moment are based around the STM32F446RE. They take Arduino shields but also have additional pins on the outside, the 446RE has a shed load of PWM signals (was using it for prototyping a 3 phase motor controller) coupled to an up to 180MHz Cortex-M4 core. I think it was the extortionate price of £8 next day. They also support all the Arduino code but then also supports proper C++11 and bunch of proper development tools.
  17. I'll refrain from recommending Milwaukee . If you've got cordless tools do they manufacture any lights? My floodlight goes for about 4h on maximum brightness off a 5Ah battery and will comfortably floodlight my barn.
  18. Just had this through from Milwaukee: definitely a requirement for a Land Rover
  19. What do you need the voltage stabiliser for? Usually referred to as a voltage regulator. Does the clock require exactly 12V because I'd have thought it's tolerant of most voltages produced by a car - at least it should be. The cap is there just to act as a battery (energy storage) for the radio. The diode as @FridgeFreezer said is to prevent it being discharged when the battery cranks over (energy will flow to the "lower" voltage so the cap will discharge into the battery).
  20. Might have but at least when I was at Imperial the department obviously had one but you had to fill out a form and stores would order it if it wasn't in stock already.
  21. Compare the pictures. The one I linked to is much beefier. The other one you linked is probably not much bigger than a standard through hole resistor. Can you imagine sending 600W through that continuously? Hence why it's probably a peak power rating. Just look for one with 10+A continuous (or average) rating and you should be good. Farnell and RS are better for this kind of stuff because they have filters. Even if it's only to find a part number. I must admit I don't know what shipping is like since I've always had a trade account with them so it's always free and always next day.
  22. Skeptical about the diode - 600W is a fairly pointless figure to quote and I suspect if I chucked 600W through that diode continuously it would behave more like a fuse... Compare it to a diode with a proper datasheet - the VS-20ETS16THM3 which is over a pound cheaper. That's got a continuous current rating of 20A and a peak of 300A, current is what matters on a diode in this situation. The Vrrm(max) maximum repetitive voltage is effectively it's breakdown voltage above which things go pop. Incidentally that one is automotive qualified too! Note for maximum current it should probably be attached to a heat sink / metal plate.
  23. Another point (and just noticed the end of Rich's video) is tight fitting sockets are a must. Any wobble severely reduces the ability of it to undo nuts - you can see this in his video as they wobble around.
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