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Ed Poore

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Everything posted by Ed Poore

  1. Nope, 450°C is upper limit but when you're soldering stuff that's 1 square millimeter or smaller then stuff tends to go poof at higher temperatures...
  2. I guess one of these is not what you're after then?! (apologies for any injuries sustained from seeing the price, wait until you realise that the price for the tips is per tip not per pack). I've got an old Weller that I use for bigger stuff and on vehicle work. The JBC Nase re-work station is a little overkill (or maybe underkill?) for LR stuff. Although it does heat up the tip from ambient to 350°C in the time it takes you to remove it from the holder to the PCB.
  3. They've not started selling them yet and somehow someone's managed to steal one
  4. All of the above brands are decent. I'm biased towards Milwaukee and from what I hear from people who have run all of them they are the more robust of the Dewalt / Makita brands. But they do miss a few tools from the others that might be useful. An interesting viewpoint was Dewalt were outside Screwfix when I went to pick up a couple of things. They cornered me and once I said, sorry I use red and black, one guy said well we're never going to convert him. The other then asked why I'd gone Milwaukee, the initial reason was the 1/2" impact which I happened to have in the Land Rover. He asked to see it as they, personally, had never actually got their hands on one. Once he felt it he said - "Yeah... We've got nothing to touch that". Should say that Dad did an entire 20x8m barn roof with 5m sides in box profile with Tek screws on a single charge of a 4Ah battery with the dinky 1/4" impact driver. Probably a few thousand screws into oak roof joists.
  5. I can't comment on the cheaper end of the market since all my cordless tools are Milwaukee. I had the opportunity to use the High Torque 1/2" at a garage in Kendal and like you it made an impression, to the point where when I got back from the trip I ordered one. It largely depends on what you want to do with it - I was using the big gun on erecting some scaffolding at home yesterday and my arm was knackered after going around, it's a heavy lump. It's worth having a watch of this video where Rich strips down a Cummins and most of the time he barely breaks into the bigger impacts. The half inch impact (no longer their biggest by a long way) makes mincemeat of every bolt on a Land Rover (with a decent impact bit), crank pulleys, radius arm bolts etc., no issue at all. One thing to bear in mind is whether you might want any of the other tools because it's the battery system that's expensive. Have a look through their tool ranges and see what you might be interested in. Milwaukee focus on particular markets, they've basically sorted the mechanics side of things, they're focusing on construction now and a bit more of the garden variety with saws and hedge trimmers. Their motto / branding is removing the cord from the jobsite and to be honest they're achieving it, cordless 9" grinders, flood lights, nailers, impacts the lot. From a professional environment it saves a lot of paperwork if you don't have cables running across the site. But they don't necessarily come cheap... I personally will try and get cordless where possible now because I tend to use them places on the farm / property where there isn't power readily available and it's just so much more convenient.
  6. Might I suggest a threaded fitting rather than an eye. Dad had the same thought for moving milling machines into his new machine shop so found a scrap top-link from a 3 point linkage and embedded that in the concrete. Ended up not using it as the digger with a long steel pole machine to slide the 3 tonne machine in but now is constantly tripping over it, but being a 3 point linkage is hardened to kingdom come.
  7. Nature, to be fair I'm not surprised I'm finding stuff given the place. After all confirmed there's a "secret" cellar.
  8. Progressing faster than I am with my workshop build. Although in my defence I got distracted having discovered a cobbled driveway underneath the lawn outside the workshop so given it's turned into a quagmire I've decided to strip off the lawn bit and get down to the cobbles.
  9. Digging up an oldish thread but I'm going to back James up with saying the Boom-slang is not the best of quality. I was driving over from Skye a couple of weeks ago when I lost the high beam (and thus all headlights in that position) due to a fuse for the passenger side high beam going. Luckily dropping back to normal headlights and there was light so carried on. Did some digging around before the drive south and high beam started working again without anything significant being done so thought chaffed wire that I'd relocated - anyway set off on the 13h drive south and half way through Wales fuse popped again. Just about finished dismantling the front of the vehicle chasing wires through and couldn't find a single dodgy wire. Bypassed the Boomslang wiring harness that's been in there for probably just over 3 years - back to the original wiring and everything appears to be working fine for the moment so I suspect something dodgy is going on with the relays in the harness. So will run that for a while to see whether it's rectified the problem and if so will go down the route of building my own loom. At the time the off-the-shelf loom was nice and quick to install but looks like it's a bit of a false economy.
  10. The only "simple" option I see for that might be something cam based. If you have a frame the plastic sits in then you could have a cam that goes over-centre to push the plastic against the frame to hold it in. I suspect for any "removable" solution you're going to have more problems than it's worth trying to keep it watertight.
  11. If you're thinking the latter then what about making something like a gull-wing setup? Hinged at the top and then a catch at the bottom. If you made it something like the original pop-top Tdi era sunroofs then you can slide them out easily enough.
  12. Define quick - the Series method might be considered quick compared to bonded seals. Or are you thinking removal in the field with no tools in a few seconds?
  13. Should be because I dropped off an injector pump for him a while back
  14. And here I was going to suggest you don't need one to find you'd already bought one. I normally overheat when I have my heaters on:
  15. Ed Poore

    Drop Arm

    You're lucky - I was going through 2 a year . Two years ago bit the bullet and stumped up for the kit from Gwyn and haven't touched it since, steering is also a hell of a lot tighter than it used to be, much nicer to drive as a consequence.
  16. @David Sparkes whilst you are technically correct I think with the advent of solid state power electronics the two are typically lumped together in one unit and the terms are used more or less interchangeably now. The only practical way to do single phase to three phase conversion is to rectify the input mains (smoothing helps but modern techniques don't actually require this) and generate a DC bus. Once you've got the DC bus then you can feed that through multiple PWM stages to generate the three phase out. Given almost everything now is driven by a micro-controller to achieve as near unity power factor as is possible then changing output frequency is simply a case of changing a number in the software on the micro-controller.
  17. And that is why I had sourced a BridgePort initially, however now I'm thinking in the future more like >5kW machines...
  18. Yeah only works up to a few hp though. I'm thinking bigger
  19. Definitely noticed this. What's annoying is I bought a Bridgeport about 6 months ago with a load of tooling (included horizontal arbor, rotary indexers, collets, multiple vices, DRO and a bunch of other stuff I can't remember) but now I've moved down to Wales and I've got the space I could have (will go probably) much bigger given the opportunity. Don't have 3 phase but would be able to run a diesel generator no trouble at all. Not sure if my little tractor would be powerful enough off the PTO for biiig stuff but it claims 16hp at the PTO. Need to get some cash in the bank first before splashing out on more toys, would like a bigger lathe though.
  20. Do you have a lathe and decent pillar drill? Depends on what you want to do with it but for a general purpose tool I find the lathe invaluable (although I do now want/need a bigger one than my ML7). I've got a Bridgeport sat in a barn at my parents a few miles away waiting for my machine shop to be finished and with the pillar drill for the most stuff I don't notice not having a mill. On the other hand I'd really regret not having the lathe. Depending on what size scale you're talking about you know you can do milling on a lathe (albeit limited in area)?
  21. GEMS then, black rectangular head cover with 4.6 stamped in it.
  22. Alas I think it is a GEMS engine if I remember correctly (P reg so a 1996). What's the definitive way of telling? Although I'm up in the Highlands at the moment so won't be able to check until late next week.
  23. Make me an offer and it could be yours, maybe @Escape and @elbekko are interested in the rest of the bits for spares . I'm not that fussed on keeping the P38 in one piece it was a cheap runaround after I snapped crankshaft number 2. There was a consideration into fitting it into the 110 but then a block came up for sale here and I built up another 300Tdi, this one goes well after having been tweaked a little by the previous owner. Although I'm experienced in electronics a big part of me likes the mechanical simplicity of the 300Tdi and keeping it original, well at least that part of the vehicle. For £20k I'll deliver it to your door
  24. I think the P38 is highly dependent on what condition the chassis / general condition of it is in. If it's not roadworthy then I'd probably just break it for parts at which point I might as well take the plasma cutter to it . Lower bumpers are trash as are most corners so remove body work and shove some stupid tyres on it. In fact I just remembered snapping the rear tailgate when we put some ladders on it to remove the current 300Tdi for the 110. Fuel tank is held in place with a ratchet strap too . Maybe if the weather clears up tomorrow I'll take a more appraising look at it. Mind you I'll have to stop playing with the new toy tool.
  25. This one: https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/60782-project-6x6/page/3/#comments, don't think it's progressed much from there. Regarding the comment about offroadyness yes it would be highly preferable. My folks are 4 miles down the road on a farm so having the cherry picker available there might be handy. Bonus is we can probably ag register it if required. Even where I am around the garden (4 acres with lots of slopes) a 4x4 would be handy but possibly not required. One consideration might be to simply use a Honda generator and build a trailer / chassis for it so we can simply tow it around.
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