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300tdi clutch trouble


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I was driving along minding my own business when suddenly, the clutch pedal on my 300tdi 90 became really soft and started biting just an inch off the floorboard. at first I thought it was tired master cylinder seals but some time later, the pedal went to the floor and stayed there. I helped it up, pressed it again and it would only travel half the way down (with no resistance). Am I right in thinking that the fork has been punctured? just over 3 years ago the pressure plate warped and the pedal displayed the same symptoms (i.e. it only travelled half the way down but it had a degree of resistance).

Furthermore, I have never removed an engine before. My 300tdi is off a disco, hence it has no lifting eyes. Where do I lift it from?

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Hi can't answer your question on the fork but it certainly sounds like the fork being punched through. I have just changed the clutch on my V8 90 and found the best way was to disconnect the gearboxes and move them back on a troll jack resting the bell housing on the crossmember. Easy to get int the clutch then.

Mick

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Hi can't answer your question on the fork but it certainly sounds like the fork being punched through. I have just changed the clutch on my V8 90 and found the best way was to disconnect the gearboxes and move them back on a troll jack resting the bell housing on the crossmember. Easy to get int the clutch then.

Mick

similar to my way of changing clutches,

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To be honest, I have not experienced a clutch fork being punched through, but I have had two master cylinder failures!

Whilst I can't discount problems with the clutch fork, the symptoms are not totally unlike master cylinder failure.

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Defo not a hydraulic fault. Pedal travelled the full length when I opened the bleed nipple up. removed slave cylinder and found the pushrod to be practically flush with the bell housing (i.e. it's stuck somewhere). I spent a couple of hours undoing all that could be undone. Shall buy an engine crane tomorrow and lift it out.

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Quick update. Everything is now undone and I am only awaiting delivery of a new engine crane this afternoon. My engine is out of a discovery, hence has no lifting eyes. I fabricated a couple of lifting eyes using 6mm flat bar and bolted them to an 8mm hole just to the left of the exhaust manifold at the front of the engine and to a similar hole on the rear end of the engine (to which the wiring loom bracket is usually bolted). Do you think that that's ok? I'm a bit reluctant to put all that weight on 2 x 8mm bolts.

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Ok so now engine's on the floor and the cause of all the grief is clear. Fork is cracked badly from thrust bearing end (i would post a picture but i don't know how). Need some more advice please. How on earth does one fit the clutch fork? I've found loads of info regarding the replacement of clutch plate and pressure plate but next to nothing with regards to the clutch fork. I know that i read something about "pear shaped clips" and "copper slippers" somewhere. I only found one "copper slipper" still attached to the fork. The rest must have fallen off and slipped through the wading plug hole. i would be very grateful if I could get some tips with regards to refitting.

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Ok so now engine's on the floor and the cause of all the grief is clear. Fork is cracked badly from thrust bearing end (i would post a picture but i don't know how). Need some more advice please. How on earth does one fit the clutch fork? I've found loads of info regarding the replacement of clutch plate and pressure plate but next to nothing with regards to the clutch fork. I know that i read something about "pear shaped clips" and "copper slippers" somewhere. I only found one "copper slipper" still attached to the fork. The rest must have fallen off and slipped through the wading plug hole. i would be very grateful if I could get some tips with regards to refitting.

this in our Tech Archive should get you on the road again http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5010

with ref to http://lrcat.com/#31/4/53542

the 2 slippers [item 1]sits on the fork arm pins [item 4] as shown with the red arrow, these sit each side of the release bearing carrier against the 2 curved recesses, the fork arm fits on the ball pin [item 1] & the bearing/carrier slides onto the sleeve around the gearbox shaft.

hth.

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