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Dismantling a 110 SW Rear Tub


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Hoping the collective wisdom on here can help me out.

Am currently trying to take my 110 CSW rear tub to bits as the fore-to-aft stringers have turned to white powder around the seat belt mounts, and there are various holes and dings in the tub after a hard life as a shooting brake on an estate.
199_rear_body_lower.gif
Rear Body Lower

I’ve drilled through umpteen spot welds and rivets. Firkin’ thousands. Finally managed to release the floor (item 8) from the rest of the tub. That was stuck like a ferret to a rabbit let me tell you. Clearly not a Friday afternoon Land Rover. Mind I’m not sure that the seam sealer wasn’t structural.

But no matter how many holes I make, I cannot release the two sides (3, 6) from the rear angle mount (9). Does anyone have any tips, clues or otherwise advice? I need to preserve that angle as a) there’s nothing wrong with it and b) the angle section replacement is expensive!

And before you ask why I’m taking it to bits at all and not just replacing the rotten bits. Quite simply, space. I will only have room in the garage to spray up bulkhead-sized pieces, and that’s pushing it!

Any ideas?

Matt

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Have you unbolted the quarter panel stays? Also check for snapped off self tappers where the rear door seal screws down (been there done that....) Make sure you have not missed any of the steel rivet things alone the side of the wheel arch boxes - they are f@£$in hard.

Just looked at photos I took when doing self same job and the rear of the floor is not only spot welded, it's stuck down with some form sealer that sets like cement, from memory I used a bricks bolster to break the seal. And there were a couple of spot welds in the very corners that were bloody difficult to get at using a power drill.

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Have you unbolted the quarter panel stays? Also check for snapped off self tappers where the rear door seal screws down (been there done that....) Make sure you have not missed any of the steel rivet things alone the side of the wheel arch boxes - they are f@£$in hard.

Just looked at photos I took when doing self same job and the rear of the floor is not only spot welded, it's stuck down with some form sealer that sets like cement, from memory I used a bricks bolster to break the seal. And there were a couple of spot welds in the very corners that were bloody difficult to get at using a power drill.

Thanks Jeff some good tips there. Quarter panel stays are long gone. Self-tappers all rusted to bu**gery, so they met their demise at the hands of Mr AngryGrinder. The floor needed a large amount of persuasion with LR tool number 1 before it would part company with the tub. Couldn’t see any rivets on the side of the wheel arch boxes, but I’ll have another look. Hopefully that’ll be what’s holding this thing together.

YRM stock new part 9, fitted one to my 109 last year

I know, my one is not shot (everything else is), it’s just I can’t persuade it to relinquish its grip on the two wheel arch boxes. Actually YRM now do a complete kit, soo tempting to splash the plastic on that and stop messing about, but £250+VAT is a lot of beer tokens!

yrm_145_2.png

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Been thinking long and hard (sadly didn't take any decent photos showing the ends of that panel when I did mine), still think it's just the cack land rover sealed the floor in with. Bloody stuff sets like cement. I would try gently taping an anglers filleting knife into the seam the knocking it along the length. Any missed spot welds will be obvious, but should split. Even if you deform the panel, it's aluminium and is easy to flatten back out.

As for the YRM panels, all I can say is that Ronnies stuff is worth every penny! Before he started doing the kit, I got him to bend up some new wheel arch boxes as mine had more holes in than a politicians election speech, if you can afford it, buy the kit, the saving in time more tan makes up for the cost.

Slightly off topic, the second row seat belt anchorages are definitely worth replacing, mine looked OK, but had rusted to about 1/3rd their correct diameter. The MOT mans pull test would have been fine, but in the event of a fender bender.....

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Cracked it!

I would try gently taping an anglers filleting knife into the seam the knocking it along the length. Any missed spot welds will be obvious, but should split.

That did the trick - the spot welds duly presented themselves. I don't have an anglers filleting knife but used the flattest cold chisel I had knocking about.

As for the YRM panels, all I can say is that Ronnies stuff is worth every penny! Before he started doing the kit, I got him to bend up some new wheel arch boxes as mine had more holes in than a politicians election speech, if you can afford it, buy the kit, the saving in time more tan makes up for the cost.

Slightly off topic, the second row seat belt anchorages are definitely worth replacing, mine looked OK, but had rusted to about 1/3rd their correct diameter. The MOT mans pull test would have been fine, but in the event of a fender bender.....

Yep, am sure I'll be buying a load of YRM stuff at the Donnington 4x4 show. The seatbelt anchorages are definitely being replaced, they were shot to absolute, cat-in-hell bu**ery.

Cheer for the advice Jeff, spot on!

Matt

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