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Defender TD5 running rough


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Defender 90, TD5 1999.

My Defender started running a bit rough a few weeks ago. It also shakes (shakes not vibrates) in par with the sound.

I did a fair bit of research and I thought of asking here as someone might have a bright idea.

Here is a very short YouTube video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_ssG1e9eJY) with the sound under idle and acceleration.

I am not sure if the idle is an issue or not, but I think the acceleration is. When decelerating it runs very smooth and even.

I am also suspecting loss of power when under load (like going uphill). I think it used to be better.

This is what I did so far:

- I have a new fuel pump and filter (changed them 200 km before this issue appeared) the fuel pump sounds very normal and the engine starts perfectly.

- I changed the fuel pressure regulator (I changed it after the issue but I know it was leaking before)

- I Installed an ERG replacement kit (no change)

- I checked the turbo modulator (dismantle, clean, grease, install); seems to move OK (needs some force but it does move from end to end), it does move under acceleration

- I checked the turbo; the blades are spinning ok, there is no filing, it does spin faster under acceleration.

- I cleaned the MAF (there is no change on idle when I disconnect the MAF connector); next step here would be to buy a new MAF

- I checked the ECU wiring loom connector and there is no oil in the ECU (there is a small amount on the bottom of the box - been there for a long while and does not seem to get bigger)

- I checked and cleaned the wiring loom connector to the injector harness (did not open the rocker cover)

- I did change the gearbox, transfer box, clutch and dual mass flywheel before the issue appeared, can the CPS be half broken (runs but not 100%)?

I ordered a Nanocom Evolution (should arrive in a week) so I will try and read codes and all the data I can from that one.

In case I don't get anything meaningful from the Nanocom, is there something else I can test/do?

I know I need to double check the injectors and the injector harness but I am waiting for the Nanocom to tell me if that is the issue (and I will probably measure the resistance at ECU for each injector).

Am I missing anything?

Thank you!

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You did take a fault-code reading *before* starting on the random-replacement-parts-treadmill I hope?

If not, please don't waste more time effort and money guessing until you've read what codes are stored, cleared them, and re-driven it for a few miles. Then re-read the codes and proceed from there.

Truth is, 21st-century engine-management systems are wonderful - they solidly remember any problems they've had and are just begging to tell you what's wrong if you only give them the chance.

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Hi Tanuki,

Thank you for the advice.

No I didn't... because I did not have a device to do that. I did connect a "normal" OBD reader but got nothing (would not connect).

That is why I ordered the spectacularly expensive Nanocom.

Will do as you advise and see what comes up.

Again, thank you.

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You did take a fault-code reading *before* starting on the random-replacement-parts-treadmill I hope?

If not, please don't waste more time effort and money guessing until you've read what codes are stored, cleared them, and re-driven it for a few miles. Then re-read the codes and proceed from there.

Truth is, 21st-century engine-management systems are wonderful - they solidly remember any problems they've had and are just begging to tell you what's wrong if you only give them the chance.

Fair point on reading the codes but, oh, diagnosis of these things is a lot more complicated than that........!

And the ECU in a Td5 from 1999 is a relatively crude object anyway.

To the OP, have you tried a short drive with the fuel cap off (with not much diesel in the tank to avoid spillage)?

If the breather pipe is blocked, the pump can struggle against the resulting vacuum in the tank.

Also, a poor earth to the ECU can cause problems, so try rigging one temporarily with decent gauge wire direct from the battery to the stud at the bottom of the box under the driver's seat.

Also check the fitting of the small black relay in the same box in its socket. This is the main relay and can affect stuff downstream if the connections are corroded, dirty etc.

I've been down this road and feel your pain..

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  • 2 weeks later...

Macpaul: thank you for your suggestions. I will probably double check the earth. Last time I measured (battery - chassis) i did get 6 ohms but thought that was normal. I had the tank out 4 months ago and I did clean it. Will also double check the relay and post back.

I now received the Nanocom and had a chance to read the fault codes.

I have only one that looks suspicious:

(28,3) INJECTOR 3 PEAK CHARGE SHORT, (LOGGED).

(it is only for that injector... not all of them)

Also when I go to the cylinder balance values I get (on average)

CYL 1: -3.7

CYL 2: -4.7

CYL 3: 15.6

CYL 4: -3.5

CYL 5: -4.5

So I think I do have a problem with either the injector 3 or cylinder 3.

I did a search on that exact text ("INJECTOR 3 PEAK CHARGE SHORT") but only found it coupled with all injectors, not only one (the usual "oil in the ECU" issue).

Any advice on this one?

Should I start by changing the harness?

Thank you.

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Reading around on this it seems some have cured this by changing the injector loom....

Others have had to change an injector....

Worth changing the loom and if still misfiring, how about swapping two injectors and see if the problem moves...

(Don't forget to get replacement seals and washers just in case....)

Neil

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I finally had time to do all the tests I wanted.

Conclusion: Injector number 3 is stuck.

The Nanocom can "ping" one injector at a time when the key is on position II. Pinging all other injectors (1,2,4 and 5) results in a very audible click. When pinging 3 nothing happens.

I tested (continuity) the loom from engine to ECU and the injector harness. All good.

I measured the resistance on injector -> harness -> loom. All good.

Final test: I connected the harness plug for injector 3 into injector number 2. Pinged 3 and the click was there.

So now I know that the signal is sent all the way and the injector's coil has the correct resistance (safe to assume it's not fried).

As such, the only conclusion is that the injector is stuck. (probably close as I don't have any smoke)

So I am now after a replacement injector. While I have the rail off I will also change all seals and washers.

Does anyone has any advice for an injector replacement? Should I get a reconditioned one (exchange)? Should I go for a brand new one?

Thank you.

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