ROGUE TROOPER Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Well this is strange....... Std 10 inch brakes on a S3, bleed with easybleed and no air present.....yet when my foot is placed on the brake it goes to the floor, but a couple of pumps brings it back up and I have brakes!! S3 with new Master cylinder, wheel cylinders and shoes. Why doe it not bleed? Also had "sparks" flying out the exhaust (2.5 NA diesel) which was fun!! (I think its carbon burning off?) Ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgnas Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Have you adjusted the "snail" cams? Could be the springs are pulling the pads right in and it takes a pump to get them out again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Agreed, it is an adjustment problem. Air makes the brakes go spongey but still work a little. Poor adjustment means that all the peddle travel is taken up moving the shoes towards the drum, you then do it again and before the springs can return the shoes you pump more fluid into the cylinders and then the shoes hit the drum and you get a firm peddle. Clear? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 Clamp the rear hose and see if the problem goes away, if not - clamp each front hose in turn. When the brakes suddenly work better, you have located which wheel/s are the problem. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 A common mistake that some people make on 10 inch brakes is to connect the top return spring from the trailing (rear) brake shoe to the leading (front) shoe, instead of from the leading shoe to the anchor peg on the backing plate. When the brake pedal is released the spring pulls the trailing shoe piston all the way in because there is no snail adjuster and peg on the trailing shoe to prevent this , so that all the pedal travel ,for several strokes if the mistake is at all 4 wheels, is used up pushing the pistons back out. In the bad old days when I still had 10 inch brakes I would remove and bin the top springs altogether. This made the brakes self adjusting and always maintained a good firm pedal, but it was easy to forget to regularly check brake lining wear until the sound of metal to metal grinding made itself apparent. Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 I would remove and bin the top springs altogether. I wouldn't recommend this, there is a chance that the leading shoe will self-servo and lock the brakes up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 I would remove and bin the top springs altogether. I wouldn't recommend this, there is a chance that the leading shoe will self-servo and lock the brakes up. Never happened in around 70,000 miles. Probably can't. I'd agree with you if you were talking about 11 '' brakes, but If you have a close look at the brake shoe pivot post at the bottom of 10 inch backing plates, unlike 11 inch brakes which have flat slides to permit self servo action, you'll notice the 10'' ones are round and the bottom of the shoes have half round ends that sit on the pivot post, so there is little if any self servo action in the design. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 Yes, but the shoe would pivot on the bottom and the leading edge would be drawn into the drum. It doesn't need to slide to self-servo, in fact the shoe rotating would give a stronger self-servo action. If you say it worked for you then fair enough, but I'm very cagey about messing around with brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROGUE TROOPER Posted October 25, 2006 Author Share Posted October 25, 2006 Ta all............ I made the mistake of connecting the spring from shoe to shoe........DOH A hour later after removing all the road wheels and puting the springs on the posts (note to self: Follow the Haynes instructions!!) it now works......... .......Need EP90 in the transferbox and adjust the handbrake and "COW" is off for an MOT next week!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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