pete3000 Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 bet that was pleasant, with last weeks heat so the radiator in the car (heater matrix is working) I'd also conclude the water pump is working from this if air from it stays hot. So you could conclude it's either the thermostat is stuck shut, i.e does the rubber pipes get warm to the radiator? Give them a squeeze and see if they are full of water. P.S don't dangle near the fan. if the pipes are warm crack the bleed nut on the rad and see if there is water coming out under pressure i.e the pump is working and water circulating. what colour is the coolant/water, pink red or greeny blue? ok. rust and muck may indicate the new rad story was a lie. David still had some good advice of changing the vcu for the fan. as no change in noise likely means all the oil has left the unit. This would mean the temp rising quickly once it's warm and you stop moving or climb a steep hill slowly. I.e ask it to work hard without providing airflow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g1no Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 Hi pete, yes all the pipes to the rad are hot. On my first attemp to solve the problem i changed the thermostat, it has overheated a few times since then (only bin a week), so maybe it needs another one. Rumur has it........ When cars overheat you change the thermostat anyway as they become faulty once got too hot ? Would i crack the bleed nut on the rad while the car is running or immediatley once turned off? There has bin no rust water coming out overflow when car is overheating, its bin red or blue. It had a head gasket test...... The one they do when they put a little pump on the overflow tank and squeeze it to see if the exhaust fumes are coming through the water vapour, it turns the blue solution inside the little pump green if the head gasket has gone or it stays blue if it hasnt. It stayed blue. The fan i got was a v8 one so picking up another one for a diesal tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 you may be able to leave the thermostat out completely to see if it makes any difference, can do on defender, check to see if it will seal once bolted back up. if both the rad pipes are hot there must be flow, just depends on how much. You can crack the nut open (dont unscrew much) on top of rad when running cold/warm just watch for splashes from the viscous. Don't do when hot. Water should emerge freely as it's under pressure from water pump. it should also let any air locks out. See how you get with the diesel fan/vcu, If no good Then I'd be looking at a new rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g1no Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 Ok cheers pete, You said the nut was on top of rad, on mine its underneath and the two pipes going to and from the rad are located at the top of rad. At some point tomorrow morning il crack the nut at the bottom of rad, i would imagine the water will come out quite freely as it did last time i bled it. I was trying to push out airlocks last week before i changed the thermostat. I must not be doing right. Ill have another go tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 interesting vid, found it while looking for a drain plug pic, just shows you what is about via cheap suppliers/cutting corners. More info in the full view on youtbe comments. Sadly I can't find a bleed nut photo, however if you loosen the top hose by removing the clamp and wriggling the pipe it should have same effect. You need to see if there is air in the rad, it wont come out of the bottom as this is the drain plug. (water is heavier than air :-)) P.S doesn't look anything like your new rad does it? :-0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/diesel-p38-radiator-baffle-not-236640.html Sorry it's a link to another site mods, but is quite an eyeopener. g1no worth a look with a denatl mirror/ torch or similar. page2/3 shows another yt vido of the missing baffle. pg1/2/3 names some of the sources it could have come from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 I KNOW it's as boring as hell to keep banging on about it, but RTFM! This will explain the coolant flow, AND the bleed process. The only thing it won't do is explain the benefits of using clear hose instead of black, and rerouting it across the top of the wing instead of following the original route with it's U bend. But it's pointless advocating those alternatives when there is no basic knowledge to build on. Why should anyone be expected to re-write the Workshop Manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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