Rear cross member replacement

[geoffbeaumont]

I don't think I've ever seen a steel rear floor - mine, dad's, and at least 5 others I've seen are all ally maybe we're just lucky?

Maybe the steel ones have all rusted away...

Mine's steel. Well, steel and gaffer tape... I've got an alloy one in the garage waiting to go in.

[LS26]

some were alu i think, cause they corroded against the inner wings and supports running around the edged.

Mine was alu originally iirc and i replaced mine with an alu one.... which i cut in half so i could take the rear half out without needing to move the LPG tank:

Interesting position on the LPG tank there Fisha - I am planning to put mine down into the rear footwell to try and clear as much load space as possible - although I am a bit on the short side so I don't need the full rearward travel on my seat...

On the steel vs ally/alu (we used to say 'lulu' in the scapyards of Nottingham when I were a lad) - I reckon that I would prefer steel for it's improved strength (although having said that - I never managed to dent my lulu one at all...)

Mine is fairly solid (amazing how much of that white powder it generates though) but anyway I was actually thinking of replacing it with plywood... Do I need to run away and hide now for that heresy?

Roger

[fisha]

for the sake of completeness:

as for plywood - i wouldn't recommend it, but if you were dead set on it, then the only thing i would consider would be the stuff that Ifor Williams use to line the bottom of their trailers. Trouble is its ruddy heavy.

Another thing may be chequer plate. Its pretty easy to support the underside of the floor with right angled metal. I did this at one point point.

Actually when I think about it, it was easier for me since i:

a) lifted the body by 1" with spacers

B) removed the tank so i had tons of room

[LS26]

for the sake of completeness:

as for plywood - i wouldn't recommend it, but if you were dead set on it, then the only thing i would consider would be the stuff that Ifor Williams use to line the bottom of their trailers. Trouble is its ruddy heavy.

Another thing may be chequer plate. Its pretty easy to support the underside of the floor with right angled metal. I did this at one point point.

Actually when I think about it, it was easier for me since i:

a) lifted the body by 1" with spacers

B) removed the tank so i had tons of room

I read a thread a while ago which debated the relative merits of body-lift vs suspension-lift and I must admit after reading that I decided that to me it's a no-brainer - what I want is a body lift. Clearance for the big tyres without all the trick suspension that I can't afford. So - if you don't mind...

I reckon all I need is six by 1" spacers and longer bolts (also I would change the rubbers while there) Am I correct in this?

It looks like an amazingly simple job (undo the steering, jack it and retighten the steering) - are there any hidden snags?

Cheers

Roger

[fisha]

you'll need 10 spacers like this one: i'd also suggest you get a complete new set of body mount bushes as well ( 20 in total ) and perhaps the washers for them ( cause they rust away )

there is one on each side of the chassis at:

- the front of the chassis just inside of the lights

- in under the bulkhead next to the chassis rail ( as pictured above )

- on an outrigger at the front of the sill

- on an outrigger at the rear of the sill

- at the rear holding the rear crossmember

essentially is it just a case of undoing the bolts swapping the parts, but you'll need to take care of the seat belt mounts that run down onto the chassis ( one for each front seat and 2 that are tucked above the rear a-frame in the boot floor ). also be watchful of the steering shaft and brake pipes, fuel pipes and fuel filler.

i jacked mine up by placing a large 2x4" bit of wood along the length of the sill. you have to lift it a long way up to overcome the springs, and go slowly watching out for bit that have caught or are still attached.

now - the thing to be wary of is the bolts. take 1 bolt out first, then go and try and source a new longer bolt for it. So if your going for 1" the take out a bolt, measure it, add 1" and then go and look for something suitable.

depending on what you source, then some bolts will be able to go the way they come out ( i.e. bolt head at the top ) and some wont. on the rear sill outriggers, i had to put the bolt head at the bottom and the nut at the top.

the easiest bolt to take out first is the one at the front of the chassis. take the grill off and its readily visible from the top and bottom. look just inside of the light box area.

[LS26]

you'll need 10 spacers like this one: i'd also suggest you get a complete new set of body mount bushes as well ( 20 in total ) and perhaps the washers for them ( cause they rust away )

there is one on each side of the chassis at:

- the front of the chassis just inside of the lights

- in under the bulkhead next to the chassis rail ( as pictured above )

- on an outrigger at the front of the sill

- on an outrigger at the rear of the sill

- at the rear holding the rear crossmember

essentially is it just a case of undoing the bolts swapping the parts, but you'll need to take care of the seat belt mounts that run down onto the chassis ( one for each front seat and 2 that are tucked above the rear a-frame in the boot floor ). also be watchful of the steering shaft and brake pipes, fuel pipes and fuel filler.

i jacked mine up by placing a large 2x4" bit of wood along the length of the sill. you have to lift it a long way up to overcome the springs, and go slowly watching out for bit that have caught or are still attached.

now - the thing to be wary of is the bolts. take 1 bolt out first, then go and try and source a new longer bolt for it. So if your going for 1" the take out a bolt, measure it, add 1" and then go and look for something suitable.

depending on what you source, then some bolts will be able to go the way they come out ( i.e. bolt head at the top ) and some wont. on the rear sill outriggers, i had to put the bolt head at the bottom and the nut at the top.

the easiest bolt to take out first is the one at the front of the chassis. take the grill off and its readily visible from the top and bottom. look just inside of the light box area.

Many thanks for that Fisha

Roger