Disco-Ron Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 I'm just about at the point of wiring my truck after quite an extensive rebuild, which has included fitting a 3.9 v8 and auto box. If someone could point me to a wiring guide for the hotwire side of things that would be great, (I've searched extensively).... however this question relates to the starter inhibitor, am I right in thinking that I can effectively take the wire that currently goes to the starter solenoid and wire it through the park/neutral switch and back to the solenoid, the switch is connected when in park and neutral so I assume that as the solenoid wire is only a trigger wire it should work if I do what I've suggested...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Mine's wired similar to that - the start position on the back of the ignition switch goes via the switch on the auto box, so if the box isn't in park the circuit is broken so the starter doesn't fire... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Exactly what I have in mind...... Thanks for confirming that it should work..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 You CAN do it that way but you would be better to use a relay for the starter solenoid as the solenoid can take a decent current to operate and the auto box inhibitor switch is not cheap to replace if you burn it out. From, I think, around the 300TDi era Land Rover started using a relay to operate the starter solenoid as it also provides an easy way to immobilise the starter and reduces the current through the ignition switch start position contacts. Not saying it won't work without a relay, it will and many early vehicles didn't have a starter relay, just to me it's an unnecessary strain on fragile components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Thanks Dave, fair point..... I can see that it's the wiring that will be the make or break of this rebuild.... I'm already losing sleep over it all..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Not saying it won't work without a relay, it will and many early vehicles didn't have a starter relay, just to me it's an unnecessary strain on fragile components. I *think* (but to be fair haven't checked) in my case that there's already a relay in situ anyway - the ignition switch triggers a relay down near the fuse board that switches the solenoid... My previous 90 was like that anyway, I'd imagine the 110 is the same... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 I think it probably depends on the age of the vehicle. Mine is sn 86..... I think the newer 300era ones had more relays. ... possibly one for the starter. .. mine doesn't have. But will most likely have one soon. . I'm going to use the supplementary fuse box from a 300 to power a few things. ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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