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Spotlight Install Question (Non LR)


Josh NZ
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Mods, if this is deemed inappropriate then feel free to remove.

I'm about to start a spotlight install on my truck, and I need some advice from the collective electrickery experts on wire ratings/fuse ratings etc.

Truck is a 1987 TLC, BJ71. It's 24 volt.

My plan is to run a total of around 6 spotlights. 2 on the front bumper, 3 on the roof tray facing forward and 1 facing rearward as a work light.

The 2 big spots will be Hella Rallye 4000s and the 4 smaller ones will be Hella Comet FF450s. I will be running 24v bulbs from the TruckStar Pro range, 55w I think.

I bought this fuse box.. http://www.jaycar.co.nz/Passive-Components/Circuit-Protection/Other-Circuit-Protection-Products/10-Way-Blade-Fuse-Block-with-LED-Indicators/p/SZ2008

Will it work ok with what Intend to do? I'm

Assuming the nut on the end is for a positive power feed.

For switches I'm running 6 Hella rocker switches in a clip together Hella switch bank which I'm hopefully going to fit in the DIN pocket just underneath my stereo. http://www.hella.co.nz/en/products/accessories/switches/rocker-switch-off-on-universal.html#prettyPhoto

The truck has an existing loom in the engine bay with a pair of relays on it, the sheathing saying CIBIE COMP, so I'm going to assume it's up to the task.

So, what I'm asking is what else do I need to make this all work, best route for wires eg Battery to fuse box to switch etc and what fuse ratings/cable ratings should I use? I have a large pack of grommits/glue heat shrink/crimp connectors and I'm keen to make a tidy job of it.

Thanks in advance!

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Are you running a switch for each light? If so there is not much point to the single relay as each switch will be carrying the full current anyway. If I was doing it I would (maybe) run a positive from the battery to post on your fuse block which would have a fuse for each light presumably and then a relay for each light (or bank of commonly switched lights). The fuses will probably be a similar size to the head lights depending on how many lights per fuse etc (I think my range rover has one for left and right lights and possibly high and low beam as well for instance)

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Are you running a switch for each light? If so there is not much point to the single relay as each switch will be carrying the full current anyway. If I was doing it I would (maybe) run a positive from the battery to post on your fuse block which would have a fuse for each light presumably and then a relay for each light (or bank of commonly switched lights). The fuses will probably be a similar size to the head lights depending on how many lights per fuse etc (I think my range rover has one for left and right lights and possibly high and low beam as well for instance)

I'm running 1 switch for the two big spots, 1 switch for the 3 on the roof tray and 1 for the work light. The other switches are for other accessories at this stage. I was thinking 15A cable would be sufficient for the whole thing?

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I'm running 1 switch for the two big spots, 1 switch for the 3 on the roof tray and 1 for the work light. The other switches are for other accessories at this stage. I was thinking 15A cable would be sufficient for the whole thing?

I would be using at least 2 relays for the two banks, you would probably get away without it on the single light. For wire add up the power of the lights and divide by the voltage to give current, add a bit for the safety and have a look on line for current carrying capacity of various sizes of wire. Automotive wire would be the safest choice as the insulation is rated for higher temperatures and oil resistance.

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That fuse box will be fine, it can handle 30 amps per circuit , the most you will use is 7amps on 24v with three lamps .

So 1 relay for 2 lamps 1 relay for 3 lamps and 1 for 1 lamp. that needs 3 supply circuits for relays Then 1 circuit for switch feed .

HTSH

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